I live near there part of the year every year, running an NGO. It is indeed a beautiful town.
Unfortunately, the influx of tourism has had a dramtic negative impact on social capital. Most of the Thai folks we know have split because of this. Believe it or not, crime rates have been "soaring" there (in quotes b/c it is such a small town). The crime is being blamed on the refugee population living on the outskirts of town, but we know this not to be the case, since we work very intensely in this community and know every single one of them.
Don't mean to be a downer. It is a great place, after all.
Does one of your crew speak Mandarin? The Chinese community there is very interesting indeed.
The Birdy is great on many the trails through the mountains, but definitely reaches it's limits as an off road vehicle on the rutted back roads with steep descents.
Glad you got to meet Chris (the activist) and the post card shop dog that hangs out at All About Coffee!