I like Surly.
I'd look at the Steamroller and the Karate Monkey.
I presently ride a fixed gear Karate Monkey around town.
It has Schwalbe Big Apple Tires in the summer and Nokian 294 Extreme studded tires in the winter.
It has big fenders that work, cantilever brakes (who needs brakes?), and will readily convert to a geared configuration, disc brakes, or any other kind of brakes.
If I could have only one bike for everything from commuting to goofing around I'd pick the Surly Karate Monkey.
Don't dismiss it without looking at it.