Originally Posted by
markjenn
Couple ways. I've confirmed the (new) wheel is correctly dished (clearances are unchanged flipping the wheel in the opposite direction), has negligible lateral runout, and the rim is centered in the hub. Bolting up the wheel there is about a 3mm side-to-side discrepency between chainstay and seatstay clearances side to side. Halving give you the discrepency with respect to the centerline. As someone else has pointed out, this doesn't really tell me if the problem is a laternal displacement of the rear traingle to one side or perhaps the wheel plane is out of line with frame plane due to dropout positioning.
I've also used the string method, running it from the dropout faces around the steering head and checking clearances with the seat tube. This is also slightly off too, but it is less than the stay clearance discrepency.
I'm inclined to think that I'm probably being overly picky. 1.5mm isn't much.
- Mark
I would go with the string method, its usually pretty accurate. The string method I use is to run the string from the head tube back past the dropout and tie it to a weight. Then I adjust the weight until the string just touches the seat tube. You can then measure very accurately the distance from the string to the plane of the dropout with a caliper, and compare to the other side.
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Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace
1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1