Originally Posted by
wroomwroomoops
For me the biggest downside is the need to remove and reattach the chain every time I need to reapply the paraffin. When I tried this procedure the first time, I was under the impression that it'll last a thousand kilometers, but then I realized that 200-250 is the best I can expect, so I decided "sod it, I'm going back to motor oil". I am very happy with motor oil for two reasons: relatively easy application (though you do need to wipe the eccess off a few times after applying it) and much better lubing effect than paraffin.
I have to remove the chain anyway if I want to clean it thourougly. Cleaning works best if you shake the chain in a plastic bottle half filled with a petroleum based solvent. Repeat the rinsing with clean solvent in a clean bottle. I use three plastic Minute Maid bottles subsequently. (You can recycle the used solvent nearly endlessly, if you let the grit sink for a day and pour it.) Removing and replacing a chain containing a chain link takes only seconds.
I feel commercial "chain-cleaning-devices-with-rotating-brushes" simply do not contain enough solvent to do a perfect job. Besides, I suspect these machines to bring the grit deeper inside the links.
Blow out any solvent residue with compressed air or let it dry perfectly on a paper towel. It should indeed be dry as a bone before applying the new wax. Any left solvent will interfere with the new wax mix.
You can tell if the chain is "dry & clean" if it produces a fine clear sound, like little christmas bells (!), whilest shaking it. One should not hear nor feel any "crispy" grit when moving the links.
My paraffin-oil mix has the best of both worlds. It feels "dry", does not attrackt grit. (Pure oil is a notorious grit magnet)
The melted mix penetrates easily in the links. Once "hardened" it stays longer than pure paraffin, since it is less brittle. So it won't scatter from a running chain so fast.