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Old 12-15-07 | 06:31 AM
  #15  
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flatlander_48
Cathedral City, CA
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,504
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From: Cathedral City, CA

Bikes: 2016 RITCHEY BreakAway (full Chorus 11), 2005 Ritchey BreakAway (full Chorus 11, STOLEN), 2001 Gary Fisher Tassajara mountain bike (sold), 2004 Giant TRC 2 road bike (sold)

Originally Posted by big john
Hey Flatlander! I didn't mean you shouldn't drill them, I just don't think it's a good idea for me. I have snapped pedals in the past, among other things. This is why the machinist made the first set bigger, and you're right about the tap.
I don't think the material needed to make wrench flats could be more than a few grams, and I think a stuck pedal would be easier to get off with a pedal wrench, instead of an allen.
BTW, I had a Look pedal unscrew from the shaft while climbing a local canyon, right pedal, right-hand threads on the pedal body.
No. the problem is that the bottom of the hole for the pedal threads is very close to where the extender changes outside diameter. That diameter change is where the stress concentration is. Without some very good measurements, it is hard to predict what the limits for the extenders are. By the way, you know some pedals have rider weight limits?

One clarification. The extenders I have do have an external flat. It is larger than a pedal wrench, however. When I travel, I always take a small crescent wrench so I can easily remove the pedal and extender from the bike. The problem is separating the pedal from the extender. I've always been reluctant to use a small pipe wrench, as mentioned above, because of the design of the Quattro's. There is a large barrel that, I assume, contains bearings. You would need to be VERY careful to avoid too much load to make sure the bearings weren't distorted.
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