Originally Posted by
JiveTurkey
I wouldn't be so fast to blame the threaded/quill system per se. Remove and inspect the stem. Then, make sure you do not have the quill any higher up than the min insertion/max height line and that it is really tight. Some quill/headset combos are looser or tighter than others. A new, better stem may be all you need.
Then again, it may be too
low!
If the wedge is trying to grab the tapered, butted section of the steerer, it can pop out without warning!
Originally Posted by
JiveTurkey
If you go the threadless route, you'll need a new fork, headset and stem (and spacers maybe). It'd be ideal to match the rake of the new fork to the old. If you don't know the rake, you can probably eyeball them next to each other.
1" threadLESS is generally a bad idea. ThreadLESS is the norm for 1 1/8" stuff, but is not being well supported in the 1" size.
Generally speaking, with rigid forks, the original fork that was made for the frame will be the best possible fork. Replacing it with a generic fork is liable to lead to handling issues, as it is unlikely that the replacement fork will match the geometry of the original.
Generally, the only good reason to replace the fork on a road bike is because the old one was wrecked in a crash. If your original fork is not damaged, my very strong advice is:
"It it ain't broke, don't 'fix' it!"
Sheldon "Original Fork Is Best" Brown
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