Originally Posted by
ApolloCVermouth
Thanks, chainline isn't crucial as the wheel will be re-spaced/ re-dished. I'm looking to get the cranks as close as I can to minimize re-dishing. I really have no idea about the cranks except that they came off a Specialized MTB, and are 110 bcd. I suppose "modern MTB crank" doesn't mean much, though.
put the wheels on the bike with the bottom bracket you have. Put the chainring on how you want it and measure the difference in where the chainring is and where the cog is. it's a + number if the ring is too far in, a -number if it's too far out. double that number and add or subtract it from the current spindle length, and get that length bottom bracket.