A note on sizing...

I'm 5'6" tall, and this is a 52cm frame. It's worth noting that most modern frames "measure" to the top of the seat tube...a fact that means to achieve your equivalent on any fit calculator means you need to go up a size.

What do I mean? Most fit calculators (say, Competitive Cyclist) spit out frame size numbers that assume a bike built in the way of classic steel road bikes. Meaning measured to the top of the top tube/seat tube junction, with a horizontal top tube.

I'd wager that most people are riding a frame 2cm too short. Unless you're a pro, where the conventional wisdom is to put you on the smallest frame you can use without bumping your knees into the handlebars.

Cannondale's sizing charts have a figure that they call "measured" size, which is 2cm shorter than the listed frame size...this takes into account classic measurement methods.

I size my road bikes by first looking at the tallest frame I can possibly stand over, and working the reach dimensions from there with the stem...provided I'm not doing anything too wacky with the stem to achieve the necessary reach. If I can't make that work, I go down a frame size, and try again. The benefit of using a larger frame is more control over the saddle to bar drop, without a stupidly long steerer and 4 inches of spacers with the stem flipped up.

There is currently a 3.5cm saddle to bar drop. I'm going to start playing with the spacers on the steerer pretty soon to fine tune that measurement.

Interestingly enough, this bike in 52cm has a top tube length identical to my 50cm '84 steelie.

If the seat tube terminated at the top tube/seat tube juncture, the exposed seat post might look more "correct" for you, I imagine. However, most of the "flip it" comments I see here would be rather difficult, given how small the frames are that most bike shops cram their customers on.