Originally Posted by
DannoXYZ
While the kgf measurement may not be accurate, it's representative of what we want. A measurement of 100kgf on the gauge will place the spoke with as much tension as if you hung a 100kg weight off the end of the spoke. Or conversely, it's pulling in on the rim as if you're hanging a 100kg weight on the hook-end of the spoke.
The Newton (N) does exactly the same thing except it's just 9.8 times the value. Kilogram-force and pound-mass come from people who are too lazy to learn the proper units. It's just one of those things that makes my teeth hurt...like not knowing the difference between a scale and a balance. One measures mass and the other you find on fish.
By the way, pound would work as a unit on the tensiometer since it is a measurement of force.
Originally Posted by
DannoXYZ
As for the OP's wheel, you got too eager. Easy way to build up tension evenly is to do it a little at a time and do it the exact amount on each spoke. So when I thread on the nipples, I screw it on so each one has about 1-thread exposed. Then when tightening up the spokes, I spin each spoke EXACTLY 2 turns each. Then as tension comes close to final, I tighten them 1 turn each. From then on, truing and dishing typically is done with only 1/4-turns at a time, down to 1/8th turns on the final pass.
If you do the truing and roundness while the wheel is in a relaxed state, less work has to be done later on to correct those issues. I would only turn the spokes 2 turns very early in the tensioning process and then only for 1 or 2 rounds. 2 turns takes up a lot of slack fast and you are more likely to end up with an unevenly tensioned wheel quicker.
As for dishing, I usually do that just after the spokes have started to tighten up. I then check it periodically throughout the rest of tensioning. Again, it easier to do at a more relaxed state than when the wheel is tight.