"Track Geometry" as it is generally understood by marketing types, is generally just a few numbers and has little to do with what actually works.

(i.e. 74-75 degree angles square, minimized chainstay length and fork offset, minimally short head-tube, etc.)

Different tracks, with different lengths and bankings are optimized for different bikes and the "true track geometry" stuff pretty much only applies to a select few board tracks in Germany and Belgium.

Most American tracks, as few as there are, are longer and have shallower banking. In these instances, slacker angles and a longer wheelbase aren't a significant hindrance.

The Kilo TT's geometry is just fine for track racing. Just upgrade the wheels and the cranks.