Yes, we did go to Kuelap. After a couple of days in Chiclayo, we took the bus to Chachapoyas, and visited Kuelap (a pre-Incan fortress on a mountain top) plus such sites as Karajia, Pueblo de Los Muertos, and Yalape. In most case we were the only tourists at any of the sites we visited, except for at Kuelap, where we saw 4 or 5 other people in the 3 hours we were at the ruins. (www.kuelap.org)
Northern Peru is *spectacular.*

Here is Kuelap from afar (you really can't make it out well; it's on the mountain in the middle...I am just showing this pick to give you an idea of what beautiful settings the Chachapoyans chose for their main fortress, which has a commanding view of several river valleys.)





And up close; this is the main wall of Kuelap. This is by far the most popular destination in Northern Peru but it gets only 50 tourists *per day* (it's about 4.5 hours from the closest paved road; 15 hours from the closest commercial airport).