Is Study Butte the town you were referring to at the western edge? Or was he talking about Lajitas?

My suggestions, if you go in early fall, camp in the basin...if you go in the late fall, camp in rio grande village (along the river). There are some cool day hikes off of the road west of the main ranger station, but I forget the names. The back country road out to Mariscal Mine is pretty cool. Go hike Santa Elena Canyon. Checkout Boquillas Canyon and if they still let you cross the river, buy a bottle of Sotol in Boquillas...clear like rum, smooth like tequila, and probably 120-140 proof...mexican moonshine basically.