Originally Posted by
Squeazel
I dunno- loose balls with grease work pretty darn well for me- less friction and longer lasting than cartridge BB's. If your BB shell is threaded crookedly, then you may not be able to put in a cartridge BB unless you get it rethreaded, and even then you may not have enough good threads left. So, for water intruson in a cup-and-cone, I'd do two things:
1) Drill a hole in the bottom of the BB shell to let the water drain
2) Put in one of those accordian-like plastic shields that isolates the BB bearings
Check it and regrease it periodically, and you're good to go...
Drill a hole... duh, why didn't I think of that?
Originally Posted by BCRider
I've had a bike I built for a friend do this and got around it.
First off if you loosen the main body of the BB a turn or two can the other side now be pushed over to center? If so the outer face is off and is wedging the BB to be crooked. This is by far the more common malady rather than the threading being off center.
Assuming it is the lip that is levering the body over there's three ways you can go. First is to leave the main body a little loose until you get the new plastic ring into place and only then tighten up the main body but don't over do it. Just enough to lock it firmly without overstressing the rather small contact point and threading. This isn't the best option for a regular commuter since there's a risk it'll work loose. Second is to have a shop with the right facing tools cut the facing so it's square with the threading. Third is the cheapo in between way that requires a bit of skill and judgement but will get you by if you can aim a file with good results. And that is to note the contact point and then file the edge of the shell down yourself to get rid of the contact point. This last one is the option I used on a rescued bike I fixed up cheaplike for a friend to allow them to join me for rides. If you do this it's not bad. Work the first high point down a bit and a little to either side. Run a ring of felt marker around and screw the BB in and with the wrench work the tightening point back and forth a bit. Remove and file down the new wear marks in the marker ink. Remarker it and screw the BB in again... etc... etc....etc After a while you'll have worked it down enough that the BB sits on quite a few spots and the other side is centered enough to let the plastic ring fit into place easily. At that point one last cleaning of the threads to remove any file dust, grease everything up install the BB and plastic bushing. Then sit back, rest your arms and smile at your command of old world machinist skills
I'm pretty sure it's the threads that are off, because the cartridge sits off center before the face seats against the shell. I got rained on pretty good this morning, so I'll be taking it apart tonight and I can check.

If it is the face, I'll give this a try.
Originally Posted by HillRider
This is the first useful thing you've posted.
Good point. Check the bolt that holds the shift cable guide under the bottom bracket shell. A too long bolt won't interfer with a cup and cone bottom bracket but can keep a cartridge form installing correctly.
This was my first thought, but I have a rivet instead of a bolt. I would think a rivet would deform to hardened steel, but I pulled it back almost all the way out anyway.
Thanks for the input, everyone! The only real problem I have with free BBs is they can't handle rain (as is). Secondary to that, the cups were made for 1/4" BBs in a cage, not free, so there's a little more play than I'd like. Can you still get cup and cone bottom brackets?