Carl,
I have read 3 or 4 accounts of how to adjust the seat and a couple were in direct contradiction to each other. I will say this. I had the seat all the way back because, well, it just felt like it needed to be back. After reading some stuff, I now have it pretty much all the way forward. After 6 months or so, I am still working on it. I started a thread about measuring crank length that got into seat height a month or two ago. I think it might have been under Bicycle Mechanics. You might want to go look at the responses. If I remember correctly, the rule of thumb is 1.09 times your inseam from crotch to floor. For instance, my inseam is exactly 32 inches. Times 1.09 equals 34.88. I set my seat right at 35 inches, to allow for a little padding squish, from top of seat to top of pedal at 6 o'clock, and it feels pretty good. I may move it up .25 inches to see how that feels for a while. You don't want it so high that you have to rock to reach the pedals, and you want your leg still slightly bent, when the ball of your foot is on the pedal at 6 o'clock. That does work out to having it close to straight in a relaxed way, not stretched, if your heel is on the pedal at 6 'clock. Others please correct me if I am leading Carl astray here.
I will address the suspension seatpost, since I also have a Cypress. There is a little clamp at the bottom of the suspension, just under the rubber boot. You can actually tighten that clamp up and completely lock the suspension so you have a fixed seatpost. Once my seat got used to riding, I did that. Since I ride on streets, I don't really need the suspension anyway. It might make it easier to get the height adjustment down if you went ahead and locked it up. Once you kind of get seat position figured out, you can loosen the suspension then figure out how far up to go to compensate for it.
Just a thought.
Regards,
Raymond