It may be a bit difficult to open the lights back up again since I don't want to twist those wires too many times and fatique them. But heres what I did at least and I'll get some close ups of the entrance at least:

1) Remove the battery and disassemble the light (remove tail cap, head, unscrew pill/heatsink from the body). Note it is a little hard to remove the heatsink and pill, I just gently anchored the brass part in a small vice with rubber edges and turned the body and it came right off.

2) Drill a hole in the body, the location isn't extremely important but I put it on one of the flat edges (like the MTE logo is). I also installed a rubber grommet to hopefully water proof the entrance.

3) Route two wires into that hole and route one of them to the head (this will be your positive connection) and one to the tail cap area (for negative).

4) For the positive connection, pull some slack in the positive wire to work with, then solder that wire to the base of the spring on the brass heatsink (which is not screwed in the body at this point). I feel the base is more stable than the end of the spring and there is already some solder there to give you a good point to connect to.

5) For negative, repeat but for the tail cap. In this case however the base of the spring is not easy to reach so wrap the wire around the end of the spring and solder it.

6) At this point, if you have a multimeter, test and make sure there is no continuity between the positive and negative wires just to be sure.

7) Reassemble the light, try not to twist the wires too badly when doing this but it seems inevitable so use stranded wire not solid core.

8) Do whatever you want with the other ends, I put them on power pole connectors so they can be removed from the bike.


You want to keep resistance as low as possible, there is enough current flowing here that even a small amount of resistance can lower the performance in high modes where the lights would be pulling around 5 amps. If you use disconnects, I like the power pole style and make sure you get a strong crimped connection. The wire should be of reasonable gauge, I used 14 awg for the long run and that seems good. I wouldn't go smaller than 16awg. For the short connections to the lights at the end I used 20awg silver plated copper to each light (remember these only carry half the current and are shorter so its not as important to be big). Make sure your soldered joints are strong, any resistance is going to bleed energy.