What are "bee's knees" anyway?
In any case, if you can true a wheel, get the Performance OP + ultegra wheelset (they come a bit loose so you'll need to tighten them up a bit - not hard). I train and have raced on those, and they hold up just fine. I went from 205lbs to 185lbs using those wheels (and a lot of bike time). If you don't like futzing with truing, you should probably pay an extra $100 to get a better built set from Colorado Cyclist. I've heard them recommended by a former master's pro who rides for our team.
I don't think you'll see them for $200 at Performance again - just my observation that they were $200 at this time of year last year and now that they aren't; it probably means that their prices have gone up. But believe me, $250 isn't a bad deal either.
Anyway, stay away from tricky wheelsets. You don't need them (you aren't racing) and they are hard to repair and work on. Oh, and get an 8/9/10 speed hub (basically anything but 2006-2007 DuraAce - I think, someone should verify the model years which aren't 8/9 speed compatible). That way you can make the switch to 10 speed when you want without changing anything but the shifters and the cassette. If you can find the shifters, 9 speed is fine for your needs and the cassettes are now way cheap given that 10 speed is standard.
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Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --
the tiniest sprinter