[QUOTE=TandemGeek;8035085]Ok, lets assume that for whatever reason there's insufficient cable pull: the brake booster will solve that in spades. What's the point of putting on the braded housing, further assuming they used descent quality housing in the first place?

Again, let me re-iterate... I've never used pixie dust when setting up our Avids.

1. Campy Ergo lever (check)

2. Campy brake cable housing w/Avid in-line adjuster (Campy brake wire at bars, jagwire upgraded to braide at rear triangle, in line adjuster)
3. Various types of brake cables (brake wire with proven track record,check)
4. A clean and direct run with no slop (TG I do notice that you apear to run the housing very straight at the back of the bike is it something you do because you like the look or have you found that it makes a difference in performance?)
5. In-line cable connector because they have both been travel tandems (check)
6. Stock Avid BB7 Road: '02 model and '07 model. ( is definatley a road model not sure what year)
7. Aforementioned compression spring added (check)
8. Reaction arm pre-loaded before adjusting brake pad clearance & fixing caliper position. (have to check,)
9. Rotor trued to near-zero run-out (check)
10. Caliper centered and brake pad bias / clearance adjusted per Avid's instructions. (check)

It just works... no fancy housing and no brake pull booster.

BTW, just for kicks ask the shop where they intend to install the booster (i.e., near the handlebars or near the caliper) and then ask them why. Both ways work, but there's a difference and it plays into the logic behind using the compressionless housing, or lack thereof. (power booster will be used at the back of the bike just before the brake per vaultguru because it looks right!)