That's why I suggested disassembling an old link and looking at it. The inner plates are formed to create a bushing for the pin and a "shaft" for the roller to spin around. There is a significant gap in the middle of this hollow shaft, so any lube that goes into the bore of the roller will have an easy path to the pin and it's bushing. As long as the lube is not real thick, it will easily run into the needed areas. Even a heavy 80/90W gear lube will work it's way in with a few revolutions of the crank. I like to use an inexpensive solvent thinned homebrew and apply it generously to aid in flushing out as much old dirty lube as possible. I always wipe the exterior of chain before lubing to mimimize the chance of washing more dirt into the wear areas.