Originally Posted by grok85
Sydney,
If he were to replace the bottom bracket with one that had a longer spindle in order to move the crank set farther away from the frame, that would change the chain line so that (as wrong as it is) he could ride in the small chain-wheel up front and small cog in the rear. If you change the chain-line outward, the problem then becomes front derailure travel.
One could also change how the axle was spaced in the rear to put more space between the cluster side axle nut and the frame which would also move the chain-line but that would result in having to re-dish the wheel.
Does it now seem like I meant what I said in the first place?
I was trying to tell him how to do what he wanted, not to scold him for using all the gears his bicycle came with.
Bicycle companies are notorious for specifying bicycles with ill-matched components, also many people do after-market mods that require creative adjustments
FD has everything to do with chain-line.
What you said in the first place was nonsense as it was stated.It's alot easier and SMARTER to NOT do it.It's also alot easier and smarter to use a 1 or 2mm BB spacer or thin chainring spacer or a thinner chain if the n00b insist. You are not suppose to 'use all the gears' the bike comes with. Most bikes are equipped to manufacturers specs for proper chainline. Changing the chainline to bias toward the smaller cogs just creates problems the other way. Simpler to learn to use the gears as intended. AFWIW, I don't shove rainbows when things are being done wrong.