View Single Post
Old 03-08-09 | 03:26 PM
  #24  
JohnDThompson's Avatar
JohnDThompson
Old fart
Titanium Club Membership
20 Anniversary
Community Builder
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 26,306
Likes: 5,211
From: Appleton WI

Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.

Originally Posted by chris_farley
The reason for this is the rearward-facing track 'dropout' (a common feature on most commercially produced SS/FG framesets). Adjustments to the rear wheel are a major pain. For example, I had my chain fall off once this winter, probably just because it stretched a little. Moving the wheel back to increase tension seemed like it should be very easy, but it is not. Here's my procedure:

First, back off the bolts on each of the the 'chain tensioners' (I'm not sure if that is the right name for this -- a photo is attached). Then loosen the bolt on the wheel. Then move the wheel back and tighten everything. Next, I spin the wheel and (surprise!) it wobbles. Loosen everything up again, and give it another shot. Lather, rinse repeat. Once you've got the wheel rotating nicely, it's time to adjust the rear brakes, because they are no longer hitting the rim where they used to.

In the event of an actual flat, the process is much more complicated, as I have a rear fender that must be removed before the rear wheel can slide out. I am pretty sure I also need to completely remove the chain tensioners.

I carry 4 wrenches with me in case I need to fix a flat. I need 2 different wrenches for the nuts on the rear wheel, another for the chain tensioner, and a fourth to loosen the nuts on the fender stays should I need to remove the wheel. The thought of doing all this in the winter is kind of scary to me.

I compare this to the process of changing a flat on a geared bicycle, which requires no specialized tools whatsoever. Open the quick release, pull the rear wheel out, fix the flat, and put it back.

I guess I am wondering if I am simply ignorant of how to efficiently remove a re-mount a wheel in this bike. Are other SS/FG frames easier? I have looked around a little, and it seems that most commercially available (new) SS/FG frames have these rear-facing track-style dropouts. That design seems like it should be for track bikes, not road bikes! I can't for the life of me figure out why it wouldn't be better to have horizontal dropouts so you can just mount your rear wheel in 2 seconds without removing a fender.

Also, I can not for the life of me figure out how to use Marin's chain tensioner. The sales rep who sold me the bike was 'amazed' that a bike of this price included these chain tensioners. They are kind of maddening to me, and I'm wondering what purpose they serve, and if I can just get rid of them.
Regarding your chain tension issue -- Sheldon Brown has an article that may be useful, if you haven't already read it: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html

You don't strictly need the axle tugs; some people find them convenient, but it sounds like you don't. Leave 'em off if you don't like them. Sell 'em on eBay maybe and get some $$$ back.

You are quite correct in that rear-facing slots make the wheel hard to remove when you have a full-length fender. Since you already have the frame, it's a little lte to suggest forward facing horizontal dropouts, but you might consider a "shorty" type fender to make wheel changes a little easier.
JohnDThompson is offline  
Reply