in my opinion, your legs should be used to turn the pedals, not support your weight. your weight is mostly on the saddle, partially on the bars...the split is what you are comfortable with.
proper bike fit has a lot to do with comfort as well. if your shop didn't fit you, there are numerous basic guides on the web (
http://www.cyclemetrics.com/pages/Do...t_formulas.htm,
http://www.coloradocyclist.com/BikeFit/index.cfm). be aware, this is a religion...lots of fervent support for a wide variety of 'formulas'. here is my personal take on it...
i think the lemond .883/KOPS guideline is a simple and perfectly acceptable place to start, especially if it's your first ever attempt at improving your fit. many find that a small (1/2"?) move back behind KOPS allows a little more power. i definitely like it for the seated grinds that are so common when fixed.
also, put a level on the saddle...it will only touch at the nose and the base and should be perfectly level, and while on the bike your, uh, 'taint' should be in the cradle (where the level isn't touching). the pressure there should be even (no hotspots) and stable (no need to slide forward/back). if you find yourself wanting to slide, don't move the saddle (if you've used KOPS to set the fore/aft), move the bars (by changing the stem).
now you're close...bar height left. how strong is your core? how big is your belly? a loose guideline here is to ride on the tops and try to stay in that position while completely unweighting your hands. if you can't do it for more than a second or two, you're probably tipped too far forward and should raise the bars a bit (or maybe do some situps). you want to be as low as possible while still being able to comfortably unweight your hands.
in my experience, many, many folks (even experienced riders) tend to have their saddles too high and their bars too close.
anyway, my $0.02. hope it helps you get comfortable.
PS: if you've not ridden in 7-8 months, there's no getting around the break-in phase for your ***!