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Old 03-26-09 | 10:13 AM
  #13  
elTwitcho
Live without dead time
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,136
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From: Toronto
Originally Posted by pyroguy_3
I also find that after installing a crank it's a good idea to check the crank arm bolt's tightness after a couple rides to make sure it didn't break loose.
This is a lot more likely to ruin your cranks, don't do this. The bolt isn't breaking loose, the arms are settling on the taper. By re-tightening you're over-tightening the bolts.

From Jobst Brandt

Failure from "over-tightening" is caused by repeated re-tightening of properly installed cranks. In use, an aluminum crank squirms on its taper and, because the retaining bolt prevents it from moving off the taper, it elbows itself away from the bolt and up the taper ever so slightly. The resulting loss of preload, after hard riding, can be detected by how easily the bolt can be turned.

Loss of crank bolt preload is greater on left than the right cranks, because left cranks transmit torque and bending simultaneously while right cranks transmit these forces separately. The left crank transmits driving torque through the spindle to the right crank and chainwheel while the right crank drives the chainwheel directly. Besides that, the right crank transmits torque to the spindle only when standing on both pedals. Doing this with the right foot forward (goofy footed) is the only time the spindle transmits reverse torque.

Mechanics, unaware of why crank bolts lose preload (and commensurate crank tightening), have re-tightened bolts until cranks split. No warnings against re-tightening properly installed cranks are evident although it is here where the warning should be directed rather than at lubrication.
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