Originally Posted by
Galoot
Why do you think that metal-on-metal, without oil, is a good idea? It seems ludicrously stupid to me, but I was only an engineer for 20 years before becoming a teacher, what do I know?
Because it works, it's cheap, and it's clean. I'm currently an engineer and, let me tell you, only a fool uses a solution in search of a problem.
I'm not saying that frequent or occasional oiling is never necessary for metal-on-metal interfaces, but apparently a precisely tensioned bicycle chain does not require it. Do you oil the metal-on-metal interface of the security chain you use to lock up your bike? Don't argue with me. Argue with my bicycles and their chains.
Originally Posted by
Geordi Laforge
you realize that all new chains come with lubrication, right? Are you saying you never put on new chains? If not, then that just means you're running on the stock lubrication for awhile.
how about this -- buy a new chain, thoroughly degrease your chain with a strong degreaser to remove 100% of the stock lube, and install it. put some serious mileage on the chain and see how much you like it. I am willing to bet you'll either want to buy a new chain or want to lube it due to all the rust and squeaking.
I'm saying I run my chains as clean as I can get them. I degrease them and whatever amount of lubrication remains I have found to be sufficient for efficient long lasting operation. No need to hate. I'm just asking if anyone else knows whether it works just as well with other setups or if there's something special about fully horizontal track ends with tug nuts.
If you're not running unoiled chains on track ends with tug nuts then your input is not requested or appreciated.
Originally Posted by
ilikebikes
Why do I NOT believe you? BTW, you wouldn't have to correct the problem as often if you used..... O-I-L! Shhhhhhh! Not to loud! The secret might get out!
Gee, lets see, turn the tug nut a few times or spend more money and make a dirt attracting mess? Which is a better way to correct the problem?