I've toured with many configurations of bags and racks. I recommend both front and rear racks and panniers, and a handlebar bag. Distributing part of your load to the front will enhance handling (once you get above about 3 mph) and lessen the chance of breaking spokes, which almost always happen on the drive side in the rear. Having a handlebar bag is really handy, as mentioned previously, for camera, wallet, snacks, reading glasses, etc.

There are options for mounting racks on forks with no braze-ons; it's not a big deal.