Originally Posted by
operator
Now somebody throw out some figures for acceptable tension on a handbuilt wheel with quality parts. I'm going to say +/- 15kgf.
Real world data. Spoke position (odd = left, even = right), and tension difference from what it "should" have been:
#1 +3.9kgf
#2 -1.8
#3 -7.8
#4 +4.0
#5 +2.8
#6 +1.7
#7 -7.8
#8 -0.4
#9 +2.8
#10 +7.7
#11 -14.9
#12 +5.5
#13 +2.8
#14 -3.2
#15 +5.2
#16 -1.8
#17 +2.8
#18 +5.5
#19 -6.2
#20 +8.7
#21 -6.3
#22 -1.2
#23 +4.0
#24 -0.4
#25 -6.3
#26 +0.9
#27 +4.0
#28 +1.7
#29 +0.5
#30 +0.9
#31 -6.2
#32 -1.8
This wheel runs true. There must have been an anomaly in the rim at spoke #11 because spokes #10 through #12 are all "pulling" the rim to the right to make it true. And then, 90 degrees further, there is another similar anomaly from spoke #18 to #21.
Do keep in mind that the above numbers have limited accuracy - they work best as an average over the whole wheel. The smallest and biggest "left" side readings vary by less than 2 TM-1 marks. The max "right" side reading variation is only 1.5 marks.
EDIT: This is a MTB disc brake front wheel, hence dished but in the opposite direction of a rear wheel.