Yes... with the thick winter boots on I'm pushing 6 foot 6 in height, which also makes a difference. Judging by your nick I guess you might have the same issues as me finding a suitable frame.

Best I've seen in Zinn's Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance. He usually gives two methods, "rule of thumb" and scientific. Here's the saddle height section in the bike fit appendix, to give you a taste:

"When your foot is at the bottom of the stroke, lock your knee without locking your hips. Do this sitting on your bike on a trainer with someone else observing. Your foot should be level, or the heel should be slightly higher than the ball of the foot. Another way to determine seat height is using your inseam measurement (Fig C.3), found in Step 1 under Section C-2, 'Choosing Frame Size from your Body Measurements' above. Multiple your inseam length by 1.09; this is the length from the centre of the pedal spindle (when the pedal is down) to one of the points on the top of the saddle where your butt bones (ischial tuberosities) contact it (Fig C.4). Adjust the seat height (Chapter 10) until you get it the proper height.

Note: These two methods yield similar results, although the measurement-multiplying method is dependent on shoe sole and pedal thicknesses. Both methods yield a biomechanically efficient pedalling position, but if you do a lot of technical riding and descending, you may wish to have a lower saddle for better bike handling control."

I've found this book to be a great help working on my bike. This afternoon I disassembled the rear brakes completely, cleaned them out, regreased the parts, reassembled, disassembled the jockey wheels, cleaned and greased them then reassembled them, all based off the exploded diagrams in the book. I'm glad I did as the rear brakes looked like they were close on seizing up from all the road salt, and the jockey wheels had sludge instead of grease inside.

The US list price is $21.95, ISBN 1-884737-99-4.