Originally Posted by
SeizeTech
I have a canadian tire schwinn Izip, which is basically a Currie Ezip that Dorel Canada has stamped their own name on.
Doing some googling but can't determine which bike it is that you have. Post a pic or a link to a pic. We need to know more about the wheel and the drive assembly to be able to say something specific.
Originally Posted by
SeizeTech
I have less than 1000 kms of commuting on it, and I noticed that there are 4 spokes broken on the rear wheel they are all right next to each other and broke at the hub, not the rim.
That's where they usually break. Which side, drive side or non-drive side?
Originally Posted by
SeizeTech
...When I took it to the local bike shop, they told me that the spokes were already the strongest spokes that you can get,
Strong in everyday terms is too fuzzy when you get down to detailed engineering questions. Since your spokes held up in the beginning the issue you're dealing with is fatigue - not "strength". When it comes to pure pulling power spokes are just about always more than strong enough. Nipples and rims tends to fail way before the spoke is torn apart.
Originally Posted by
SeizeTech
..When I took it to the local bike shop, ... they didn't seem optimistic that a different rim would help.
If most characteristics of you, your bike and your riding are "average", then it's unlikely that it's the rim that's at fault.
What could happen though is if you have a rim that has a bad low spot, then the builder might have prioritized roundness above spoke tension. This can leave you with a group of spokes that are badly undertensioned, and they will fail due to fatigue rather rapidly. In this situation replacing the rim would help. What you need in that case isn't a stronger rim, but merely a rounder one.
Originally Posted by
SeizeTech
Has anyone had their rear wheel rebuild with specialty parts that make it super strong?
Sure, but unless there's something "special" about the rest of the situation there's usually an easier fix to the problem. Most rear wheel issues is down to build quality rather than parts quality.
If your issue is fatigue related, then tension, tension and tension are the most important keywords. There is a bunch of tricks that can be used, but we need to kow more about the drivetrain and the wheel to be able to say which can be used by you.
Is it a stock hub?
How many spokes?
how many crosses?
what gauges?
how is the drive arranged?
What do you mean by "strong"? capable of taking endless mileage or capable of carrying huge loads w/o buckling? These two are kinda mutually exclusive.
Originally Posted by
SeizeTech
There is a local bike shop in town that is also a good motorcycle shop, I'm thinking that the 2 shops can collaberate to make an extra strong wheel for me, but I am curious if someone can recommend their build?
Well I'm not saying it's impossible, but it'd probably be hopelessly expensive. A bicycle hub can't be drilled for motorcycle spokes, the flanges aren't big enough. There's nothing preventing a good metal fabricator from replacing the flanges, which'd immediately leave you with the issue of finding a rim that could be redrilled to take the thicker nipples. There are probably wide section DH rims that are meaty enough for such a procedure, but unless there's something extreme that you aren't telling us about your riding situation you really shouldn't need it to get a functional wheel.
My money is on a poor build quality. Get the wheel rebuilt to the proper spoke tension. If there's problem with the rim it should surface then and if needed you can have it replaced.