I've found that a fork works as least as well as any stand I could afford to buy. I use a straight edge held tangent to the rim for radial truing, and move it to perpendicular to the rim for lateral truing. I often use a dial indicator as well, mostly for the initial truing before I bring the wheel up to tension, and again to measure the finished wheel so that I can always remeasure to determine if the wheel is stable.
I also don't like that the TS-2 doesn't center perfectly. According to the park website, you still need to use a disk stick for "precision work."
The straight edges and the dial are easier for me to read and faster than the caliper on the Park, but the biggest advantage of using a fork is that you can easily push the rim sideways to take tension off the spoke while you are doing adjustments. I don't think you can do that with a Park, or any of the other cheap stands.
I made my whole wheelbuilding set up, including a dish stick that works with the wheel on my stand and an accurate tension gauge, for about $40. Of course, that is only possible because I was able to scrounge a couple of forks and other materials. I can't easily build wheels with oversize axles (which is not important to me), but otherwise my tools are as accurate and easy to use as anything that's commonly available.

em