Originally Posted by
sleepless
Surly Dingle
As long as the tooth difference is the same front and back, I can just pop the chain over for flatland(road) vs hilly(trails). i.e. 17-44, 20-41 or something along those lines
I picked up the frame, no bells and whistles. The fixed cup is still on there, which will be a ***** to take off but I'll manage.
The goal in mind is budget beater
but i don't mind missing that target, i've got a few bones to drop. The build is half the fun (mech engineer here).
I used a Sugino RD crankset for my Dingle setup, also a Raleigh (Sprite). I used a 48-44 with the 17-20 Dingle. The long horizontal dropouts mean the difference in cog teeth doesn't have to equal the difference in the chainring teeth. I run an 18T freewheel on the other side of the hub.
Even though I used 27" wheels, I still needed long reach brakes so check that before you buy brakes.