Originally Posted by
schwinng88
I'm no expert, but I was just struggling with this a few days ago. I had much better luck by NOT doing it as illustrated in the manual. Basically, you need to separate the "threading the needle" part of the operation from the "routing around the pulley" part of the operation. Then there is less drag on the cable and it goes fairly easily. This is what worked for me:
Take the COVER OFF to insert the cable. Shift into a position where you can see BOTH sides of the white plastic cable stop with the tiny cable hole in it. (so you see the end of the cable coming through the hole)
Thread the (soldered) cable through the hole and then pull the cable end BACK OUT of the shifter housing by about a foot.
Bend the tip of the cable a little bit and route it around the underside of the pulley. Push until it comes up on the far side. You'll need to give the cable a firm tug to pull the loop of cable back inside.
Soldered cables are MUCH easier on these. Maybe a dab of superglue on the end would be close enough to get that double ended cable to work for you.
You don't need to do this.
This is much more complicated than it needs to be. There's no reason why the OP can't simply push the cable through. We do cable changes on sram force/rival/red all the time in the shop and you simply push the cable through. It doesn't fray and you don't waste shop time on unecessary procedures.
And oh and you're fired if you do it the way you described
Originally Posted by
joejack951
And 100% wrong.
http://www.jagwireusa.com/index.php/...s/mountain/499
We used 1.2mm jagwire exclusively for brake and shifter at our old shop (didn't do any high end stuff like sram road).