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Old 10-16-09, 12:06 AM
  #28  
LarDasse74
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Grid Reference, SK
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Bikes: I never learned to ride a bike. It is my deepest shame.

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Originally Posted by H3llM4rine
The cranks are two weeks old. They were new when I got them. I also think it's too early to think that the cranks are broken.
Sadly, no. It is not too early.

The taper in a crank must be a very precise fit with the taper on the spindle. If there is any deviation from this shape, cranks are likely never able to stay tight again - they develop a microscopic amount of movement and slowly ratchet off the bolt; the shape of the crank taper becomes further damaged as the bolt comes off and the ratcheting speeds up; which accelerates the damage to the crank.

Overtightening your cranks during installation will mess the taper up waaaaay faster than that, but the result is the same.

I have hear of using shim stock to revive damaged cranks, but I have yet to see it work. I am not saying it doesn't work, just that I have never seen it work.

You may be able to use locktite or something but I cannot say for sure. I have used red locktite successfully to quiet squeaky crankarm/spindle interfaces when the ratcheting action is still very minor, but not for overtightening damage.

If a crank is repeatedly retightened and ridden, damage to the BB spindle can result and may damage subsequent crank arms, so sometimes the BB spindle must be replaced too.

Edit: if you decide to try red loctite (262?), use it on the crank taper only! Do not put permanent strength loctite on your bolt threads! Use blue loctite (242?) for that.

Last edited by LarDasse74; 10-16-09 at 12:12 AM.
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