Originally Posted by mrrabbit

Actually the LBS guy is right - but only for a basic machine built replacement wheel straight out of the box....

Assuming it's an el cheapo generic replacement like the ones I build do the following:

1. Check your dropout alignment.
1. Adjust and lock hub for a noticeable grind - but not one that feels damaging.
2. Ride around block 2-3 times or for about 5 minutes.
3. Check wear-in. Most will wear in considerably.
4. Make final adjustment such that:

You have either a micron of end-play (assuming quick release) or are spot on - smooth but no end-play.

If you discover after wear-in that the axle when rotating binds in 2 or 4 spots - return the wheel as the races are likely not pressed in parallel. (Defective hub.)

As a builder of hand-built basic and replacement bicycles wheels - I end up with about a 10% defect rate in my basic alloy hubs - the number one defect being races that have not been pressed in evenly and parallel. The others common defects are damaged freewheel threads and disc-brake hole mount threads.

(Because of the cup race defect - I end up with a pretty good supply of cones, bearings and axles, and lots of hub shells for the local recycler.)

=8-)