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Spray Painting a Frame

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Old 07-18-08, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by mastershake916
Well [powdercoat] can, but it takes a really really really long time and you can't touch it up.
Can't you just paint over it if you decide you don't like it anymore? I can't imagine it would be any worse than starting with bare metal...
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Old 07-18-08, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by mrchaotica
Can't you just paint over it if you decide you don't like it anymore? I can't imagine it would be any worse than starting with bare metal...
you can but you would have to rough up the powdercoat for the paint to stick which would make for a waste of time. i avoid sanding a frame to bare metal but theres cases where you absolutely have to
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Old 07-18-08, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by mastershake916
Well it can, but it takes a really really really long time and you can't touch it up.
Absolutely not true!!
Powder Coat comes off easily with blasting media. It also can make a great a base for a new wet paint app. One can use wet paint or a rattle can to touch it up. But not the other way around. I have worked in a powder coat shop. Roger's Manufacturing in Olathe Ks. to be exact.
Powder coating can be durable & give a nice finish. It still can be scratched & does in fact chip like anything else.

Powder Coating is at it its best used when you have a high number of parts or pieces that need paint.
The quality or appearance is not as of yet on the same level as a wet app. done by a skilled painter.

Last edited by Kawriverrat; 07-18-08 at 09:17 PM.
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Old 07-18-08, 10:19 PM
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You could have your LBS strip the parts for you then reassemble the frame after painting by someone professional. The whole process of painting a bike to look good and last is definitely not something that should done by someone who's not experienced in the field.
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Old 07-19-08, 01:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Kawriverrat
Absolutely not true!!
Powder Coat comes off easily with blasting media.
Thank you...
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Old 07-19-08, 10:36 AM
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Before you go an find a regular painter or powder coater to do it check with any chopper shops in the area. Usually they can recommend someone who does all of their frames and small parts. Usually they know someone who works a little cheaper than the big guys and tend to do just as good if not better of a job. Also if you go in and tell them that "Joe Bike Builder at XXXXXX choppers recommended you" then sometimes you will get a better deal.

There was a guy I talked to a few years ago that was going to powder coat A stretched Harley soft tail frame, rear swing arm and the legs for the springer front end for $150
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Old 07-21-08, 01:37 PM
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You could just go all out and have it anodized or better yet, boron-carbide coated.

BTW, Rallykid, your signature is freaking hilarious! What is that from?
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Old 07-21-08, 02:27 PM
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I do a lot of rattle-bomb work.

my tips/hints.

Sanding. If you can feel an imperfection, you will see it when done.

Cleaning. Degrease/clean the frame before spraying. Even after you have cleaned and accidentally touch the frame with a dirty or sweaty hand, clean/degrease it again.

Paint. Rustoleum sucks for bikes. I like duplicolor, seems to leave a much better finish.

Care. Don't touch the paint for at least a couple days after finishing. I tend to let paint/clearcoat dry for at least 2-3 weeks before hitting with polishing compound. I try to put the piece out in the sun once it is no longer tacky to help cure.

Painting is an art. I've seen spray-bomb jobs on motorcycles that look better than the next guy's $1000+ custom job. Rushing is what causes disasters/frustration.
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Old 08-07-08, 08:26 PM
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I wouldn't touch a brand new bike unless you're pro... Kinda silly...

If you want to paint a frame, find a beater in a dumpster...
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Old 07-22-09, 05:27 PM
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I'm in the middle of a rattle can job. I've got the thing primed up. Rubbing it down with 00 steel wool works great for smoothing the primer. Also, Acetone works great degreasing and pre-prep. Wear gloves. I'm also glad I'm doing this on a old beater frame.
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Old 07-24-09, 10:08 PM
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I just painted a MTB with $1 paint from Dollar General. Know whut? It looked crappy! This time I got some better paint and I'm doing more prep. I figure if I don't like it, I can always have a pro do it. Actually I was thinking about seeing if the local Bike Coop has any painting equipment.
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Old 08-21-09, 04:43 PM
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Glad I'm not the only one who's not enamored with the color of their bike. I mean, there's nothing wrong with mine and I wouldn't bother to change it (maybe if I spent a bunch of time on my bike commuting and such I would), but it's the color there was (dark green), so that's what I have. It would not have been my choice if I'd been offered a palette of colors to pick from.

I used to have a Mongoose in a sort of satin-finish candy-apple red, though, that looked like the red was glowing from within, and I loved the color of that. Would love to have that color again, or maybe a lovely blue. Or, of course, black (though probably glossy, not flat/matte). And possibly with glittery-ness.
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Old 08-21-09, 05:01 PM
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About 17 years ago I did a matte black finish on my Mongoose Decade Pro BMX frame. I stripped all the paint off with Bix Striper, applied many coats of Rustoleum Ruddy Brown Primer, wet sanded any imperfections, applied several coats of Krylon flat black, and wet sanded between every couple of coats. I rode the hell out of that bike and the finish looked professional and never chipped, even in the spots where I dented it. Did I mention that the frame was (dull) chrome plated?
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Old 08-24-09, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Alcyon
Hey all,

Hope this is the right place to post this... I'd really like to paint my Kona Dew Deluxe matte black. Not really a fan of the copper colour. Is this even remotely a good idea? What paint could I use that won't chip or flake off? And how should I protect the components? I don't really have enough expertise or trust myself to take everything off in order to paint it, so I was going to wrap everything I didn't want painted in newspaper and tape it.

Am I a total idiot who should not be allowed anywhere near a can of paint?

Thanks guys.
If you are dead set on changing the color then strip it down to the bare frame and fork and take it to a powder coating business....they will blast it clean and powder coat it for you and shouldn't be more than $75 $80. Take it home and put everything back on. Done.
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Old 08-25-09, 07:54 PM
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Hello everyone. Nice to meet you all.
It's really great. I like it very much.
plan solution commission de surendettement - commission de surendettement, vous pouvez demander un dossier de surendettement.plan solution commission de surendettement
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Old 08-26-09, 07:09 AM
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Old thread, but here goes........

It's true. It's all in prep and then application. In other words, I've seen really, really nice paint jobs on vehicles done with Rustoleum and (the Canadian version of Rusto') Tremclad.

See this: https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1

I've a few 'Yota buddies that painted in this manner. So, I'd say if it'll work on a car, it'll work on a bike.

I'd painted my old Univega using Duplicolor auto paint using the same procedure outlined in the link, but a couple of times I'd gotten in hurry. I was ansty mainly because I didn't have anything to ride while it was down, but also due to time factor where I was painting. Only had the space for so long.

The job finished out pretty nice and fairly durable. In other words, from afar it looks great. But, close up you can see the spots where the paint didn't adhere well and chipped off after having reinstalled all the components or just getting banged around a bit (afterall, it's a bike). I would prefer that it looked better close up (since when one is riding, you are indeed close up), but it's still pretty decent and cost less than a professional job.

So, I'd say if one wants the quality job, have another ride handy while you're taking the time to do the job well. Don't hurry, and don't paint while it's humid.

Oh yeah........and DON'T touch it until any layer of paint you put on has completely dried.
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Old 08-30-09, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by thook
Old thread, but here goes........

It's true. It's all in prep and then application. In other words, I've seen really, really nice paint jobs on vehicles done with Rustoleum and (the Canadian version of Rusto') Tremclad.

See this: https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1

I've a few 'Yota buddies that painted in this manner. So, I'd say if it'll work on a car, it'll work on a bike.

I'd painted my old Univega using Duplicolor auto paint using the same procedure outlined in the link, but a couple of times I'd gotten in hurry. I was ansty mainly because I didn't have anything to ride while it was down, but also due to time factor where I was painting. Only had the space for so long.

The job finished out pretty nice and fairly durable. In other words, from afar it looks great. But, close up you can see the spots where the paint didn't adhere well and chipped off after having reinstalled all the components or just getting banged around a bit (afterall, it's a bike). I would prefer that it looked better close up (since when one is riding, you are indeed close up), but it's still pretty decent and cost less than a professional job.

So, I'd say if one wants the quality job, have another ride handy while you're taking the time to do the job well. Don't hurry, and don't paint while it's humid.

Oh yeah........and DON'T touch it until any layer of paint you put on has completely dried.
The Ford Model T was originally painted with brushes. After the paint dried, the brush strokes were rubbed out with pumice and water. This method of painting caused a bottle neck in production, so Ford developed the spray gun method.

BTW, the early Model T's were available in any color you wanted. Ford discovered that black dried the quickest, after that, black was the only color available. When DuPont developed new synthetic paints, that had the same dry time irrespective of color, you could again order a Model T in a choice of colors.

Last edited by Fissile; 08-31-09 at 02:51 PM.
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Old 08-31-09, 08:36 AM
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Interesting. Something I didn't know.

The nice thing about using Rustoleum, Tremclad, or even Brightside (a boat paint some have used) is that the paints are self leveling. It helps, of course, that they cut the paint in this method. Keeps the paint from tacking up too quickly. And, particularly when using a spray gun as some have done, it flows better. I imagine having to rub the Model T's out with pumice and water was PITA. How tedious that would be on a bike frame....lol.
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Old 08-31-09, 03:01 PM
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I'd suggest using Epoxy Spray Paint.
It's one of the most durable spray paints.
I use it in the kids bikes since they are always wanting it different colors.
Its a very hard paint doesn't scratch or chip easy at all and they abuse it like no one can and is scratch and chip free.
Its a very hard paint doesn't scratch or chip easy at all and is chemical resistant.
And no need to clear coat.
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Old 08-31-09, 03:13 PM
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Since this thread was started about a year ago, it would be nice to hear from the OP to see if he or she went with the spray bomb approach, and how it's holding up a year on. How about it Alcyon, are you still out there?

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Old 08-31-09, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by thook
Interesting. Something I didn't know.

The nice thing about using Rustoleum, Tremclad, or even Brightside (a boat paint some have used) is that the paints are self leveling. It helps, of course, that they cut the paint in this method. Keeps the paint from tacking up too quickly. And, particularly when using a spray gun as some have done, it flows better. I imagine having to rub the Model T's out with pumice and water was PITA. How tedious that would be on a bike frame....lol.
I know this is a thread hijack, but here goes:


Crazy Henry Ford started off in life as a bicycle mechanic. His first car was built mostly out of bike parts and he called it the quadracycle.

The Wright Brothers were also bike mechanics. Their first planes used chains and sprockets to drive the propellers.
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Old 09-01-09, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by JTGraphics
I'd suggest using Epoxy Spray Paint.
It's one of the most durable spray paints.
I use it in the kids bikes since they are always wanting it different colors.
Its a very hard paint doesn't scratch or chip easy at all and they abuse it like no one can and is scratch and chip free.
Its a very hard paint doesn't scratch or chip easy at all and is chemical resistant.
And no need to clear coat.
Sure, but is it very durable?

Thanks for the info, fellas.

Fissile.......you remind of my buddy Jay. He's full of info like this. It's funny when you get him "altered". He has a hard time keeping it all in....lol!
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Old 09-01-09, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by thook
Sure, but is it very durable?

Thanks for the info, fellas.

Fissile.......you remind of my buddy Jay. He's full of info like this. It's funny when you get him "altered". He has a hard time keeping it all in....lol!
The most durable paint you'll get in a can Its hard as hell! dosen't chip or scratch like other paints.
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Old 09-02-09, 03:40 AM
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Originally Posted by JTGraphics
The most durable paint you'll get in a can Its hard as hell! dosen't chip or scratch like other paints.
Sounds good to me. Next paint job, I'm going to try it. Thanks!

Oh, did you get my email on the decals?
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Old 09-05-09, 06:40 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by veganboyjosh
has anyone had any luck going to an auto body shop and piggybacking a bike/frame paint job onto a regular car paint job?

like, getting your bike frame/fork to the painter, and when they have a car to paint, get your bike painted at the same time...hopefully on the cheap...
A friend of mine, body shop owner, said he could do it for about $100.00 It would have to be a solid color though.
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