Spray Painting a Frame
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#27
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you can but you would have to rough up the powdercoat for the paint to stick which would make for a waste of time. i avoid sanding a frame to bare metal but theres cases where you absolutely have to
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Powder Coat comes off easily with blasting media. It also can make a great a base for a new wet paint app. One can use wet paint or a rattle can to touch it up. But not the other way around. I have worked in a powder coat shop. Roger's Manufacturing in Olathe Ks. to be exact.
Powder coating can be durable & give a nice finish. It still can be scratched & does in fact chip like anything else.
Powder Coating is at it its best used when you have a high number of parts or pieces that need paint.
The quality or appearance is not as of yet on the same level as a wet app. done by a skilled painter.
Last edited by Kawriverrat; 07-18-08 at 09:17 PM.
#29
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You could have your LBS strip the parts for you then reassemble the frame after painting by someone professional. The whole process of painting a bike to look good and last is definitely not something that should done by someone who's not experienced in the field.
#30
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#31
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Before you go an find a regular painter or powder coater to do it check with any chopper shops in the area. Usually they can recommend someone who does all of their frames and small parts. Usually they know someone who works a little cheaper than the big guys and tend to do just as good if not better of a job. Also if you go in and tell them that "Joe Bike Builder at XXXXXX choppers recommended you" then sometimes you will get a better deal.
There was a guy I talked to a few years ago that was going to powder coat A stretched Harley soft tail frame, rear swing arm and the legs for the springer front end for $150
There was a guy I talked to a few years ago that was going to powder coat A stretched Harley soft tail frame, rear swing arm and the legs for the springer front end for $150
#32
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You could just go all out and have it anodized or better yet, boron-carbide coated.
BTW, Rallykid, your signature is freaking hilarious! What is that from?
BTW, Rallykid, your signature is freaking hilarious! What is that from?
#33
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I do a lot of rattle-bomb work.
my tips/hints.
Sanding. If you can feel an imperfection, you will see it when done.
Cleaning. Degrease/clean the frame before spraying. Even after you have cleaned and accidentally touch the frame with a dirty or sweaty hand, clean/degrease it again.
Paint. Rustoleum sucks for bikes. I like duplicolor, seems to leave a much better finish.
Care. Don't touch the paint for at least a couple days after finishing. I tend to let paint/clearcoat dry for at least 2-3 weeks before hitting with polishing compound. I try to put the piece out in the sun once it is no longer tacky to help cure.
Painting is an art. I've seen spray-bomb jobs on motorcycles that look better than the next guy's $1000+ custom job. Rushing is what causes disasters/frustration.
my tips/hints.
Sanding. If you can feel an imperfection, you will see it when done.
Cleaning. Degrease/clean the frame before spraying. Even after you have cleaned and accidentally touch the frame with a dirty or sweaty hand, clean/degrease it again.
Paint. Rustoleum sucks for bikes. I like duplicolor, seems to leave a much better finish.
Care. Don't touch the paint for at least a couple days after finishing. I tend to let paint/clearcoat dry for at least 2-3 weeks before hitting with polishing compound. I try to put the piece out in the sun once it is no longer tacky to help cure.
Painting is an art. I've seen spray-bomb jobs on motorcycles that look better than the next guy's $1000+ custom job. Rushing is what causes disasters/frustration.
#34
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I wouldn't touch a brand new bike unless you're pro... Kinda silly...
If you want to paint a frame, find a beater in a dumpster...
If you want to paint a frame, find a beater in a dumpster...
#35
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I'm in the middle of a rattle can job. I've got the thing primed up. Rubbing it down with 00 steel wool works great for smoothing the primer. Also, Acetone works great degreasing and pre-prep. Wear gloves. I'm also glad I'm doing this on a old beater frame.
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I just painted a MTB with $1 paint from Dollar General. Know whut? It looked crappy! This time I got some better paint and I'm doing more prep. I figure if I don't like it, I can always have a pro do it. Actually I was thinking about seeing if the local Bike Coop has any painting equipment.
#37
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Glad I'm not the only one who's not enamored with the color of their bike. I mean, there's nothing wrong with mine and I wouldn't bother to change it (maybe if I spent a bunch of time on my bike commuting and such I would), but it's the color there was (dark green), so that's what I have. It would not have been my choice if I'd been offered a palette of colors to pick from.
I used to have a Mongoose in a sort of satin-finish candy-apple red, though, that looked like the red was glowing from within, and I loved the color of that. Would love to have that color again, or maybe a lovely blue. Or, of course, black (though probably glossy, not flat/matte). And possibly with glittery-ness.
I used to have a Mongoose in a sort of satin-finish candy-apple red, though, that looked like the red was glowing from within, and I loved the color of that. Would love to have that color again, or maybe a lovely blue. Or, of course, black (though probably glossy, not flat/matte). And possibly with glittery-ness.
#38
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About 17 years ago I did a matte black finish on my Mongoose Decade Pro BMX frame. I stripped all the paint off with Bix Striper, applied many coats of Rustoleum Ruddy Brown Primer, wet sanded any imperfections, applied several coats of Krylon flat black, and wet sanded between every couple of coats. I rode the hell out of that bike and the finish looked professional and never chipped, even in the spots where I dented it. Did I mention that the frame was (dull) chrome plated?
#39
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Hey all,
Hope this is the right place to post this... I'd really like to paint my Kona Dew Deluxe matte black. Not really a fan of the copper colour. Is this even remotely a good idea? What paint could I use that won't chip or flake off? And how should I protect the components? I don't really have enough expertise or trust myself to take everything off in order to paint it, so I was going to wrap everything I didn't want painted in newspaper and tape it.
Am I a total idiot who should not be allowed anywhere near a can of paint?
Thanks guys.
Hope this is the right place to post this... I'd really like to paint my Kona Dew Deluxe matte black. Not really a fan of the copper colour. Is this even remotely a good idea? What paint could I use that won't chip or flake off? And how should I protect the components? I don't really have enough expertise or trust myself to take everything off in order to paint it, so I was going to wrap everything I didn't want painted in newspaper and tape it.
Am I a total idiot who should not be allowed anywhere near a can of paint?
Thanks guys.
#40
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Hello everyone. Nice to meet you all.
It's really great. I like it very much.
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It's really great. I like it very much.
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#41
(rhymes with spook)
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Old thread, but here goes........
It's true. It's all in prep and then application. In other words, I've seen really, really nice paint jobs on vehicles done with Rustoleum and (the Canadian version of Rusto') Tremclad.
See this: https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1
I've a few 'Yota buddies that painted in this manner. So, I'd say if it'll work on a car, it'll work on a bike.
I'd painted my old Univega using Duplicolor auto paint using the same procedure outlined in the link, but a couple of times I'd gotten in hurry. I was ansty mainly because I didn't have anything to ride while it was down, but also due to time factor where I was painting. Only had the space for so long.
The job finished out pretty nice and fairly durable. In other words, from afar it looks great. But, close up you can see the spots where the paint didn't adhere well and chipped off after having reinstalled all the components or just getting banged around a bit (afterall, it's a bike). I would prefer that it looked better close up (since when one is riding, you are indeed close up), but it's still pretty decent and cost less than a professional job.
So, I'd say if one wants the quality job, have another ride handy while you're taking the time to do the job well. Don't hurry, and don't paint while it's humid.
Oh yeah........and DON'T touch it until any layer of paint you put on has completely dried.
It's true. It's all in prep and then application. In other words, I've seen really, really nice paint jobs on vehicles done with Rustoleum and (the Canadian version of Rusto') Tremclad.
See this: https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1
I've a few 'Yota buddies that painted in this manner. So, I'd say if it'll work on a car, it'll work on a bike.
I'd painted my old Univega using Duplicolor auto paint using the same procedure outlined in the link, but a couple of times I'd gotten in hurry. I was ansty mainly because I didn't have anything to ride while it was down, but also due to time factor where I was painting. Only had the space for so long.
The job finished out pretty nice and fairly durable. In other words, from afar it looks great. But, close up you can see the spots where the paint didn't adhere well and chipped off after having reinstalled all the components or just getting banged around a bit (afterall, it's a bike). I would prefer that it looked better close up (since when one is riding, you are indeed close up), but it's still pretty decent and cost less than a professional job.
So, I'd say if one wants the quality job, have another ride handy while you're taking the time to do the job well. Don't hurry, and don't paint while it's humid.
Oh yeah........and DON'T touch it until any layer of paint you put on has completely dried.
#42
Senior Member
Old thread, but here goes........
It's true. It's all in prep and then application. In other words, I've seen really, really nice paint jobs on vehicles done with Rustoleum and (the Canadian version of Rusto') Tremclad.
See this: https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1
I've a few 'Yota buddies that painted in this manner. So, I'd say if it'll work on a car, it'll work on a bike.
I'd painted my old Univega using Duplicolor auto paint using the same procedure outlined in the link, but a couple of times I'd gotten in hurry. I was ansty mainly because I didn't have anything to ride while it was down, but also due to time factor where I was painting. Only had the space for so long.
The job finished out pretty nice and fairly durable. In other words, from afar it looks great. But, close up you can see the spots where the paint didn't adhere well and chipped off after having reinstalled all the components or just getting banged around a bit (afterall, it's a bike). I would prefer that it looked better close up (since when one is riding, you are indeed close up), but it's still pretty decent and cost less than a professional job.
So, I'd say if one wants the quality job, have another ride handy while you're taking the time to do the job well. Don't hurry, and don't paint while it's humid.
Oh yeah........and DON'T touch it until any layer of paint you put on has completely dried.
It's true. It's all in prep and then application. In other words, I've seen really, really nice paint jobs on vehicles done with Rustoleum and (the Canadian version of Rusto') Tremclad.
See this: https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1
I've a few 'Yota buddies that painted in this manner. So, I'd say if it'll work on a car, it'll work on a bike.
I'd painted my old Univega using Duplicolor auto paint using the same procedure outlined in the link, but a couple of times I'd gotten in hurry. I was ansty mainly because I didn't have anything to ride while it was down, but also due to time factor where I was painting. Only had the space for so long.
The job finished out pretty nice and fairly durable. In other words, from afar it looks great. But, close up you can see the spots where the paint didn't adhere well and chipped off after having reinstalled all the components or just getting banged around a bit (afterall, it's a bike). I would prefer that it looked better close up (since when one is riding, you are indeed close up), but it's still pretty decent and cost less than a professional job.
So, I'd say if one wants the quality job, have another ride handy while you're taking the time to do the job well. Don't hurry, and don't paint while it's humid.
Oh yeah........and DON'T touch it until any layer of paint you put on has completely dried.
BTW, the early Model T's were available in any color you wanted. Ford discovered that black dried the quickest, after that, black was the only color available. When DuPont developed new synthetic paints, that had the same dry time irrespective of color, you could again order a Model T in a choice of colors.
Last edited by Fissile; 08-31-09 at 02:51 PM.
#43
(rhymes with spook)
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Interesting. Something I didn't know.
The nice thing about using Rustoleum, Tremclad, or even Brightside (a boat paint some have used) is that the paints are self leveling. It helps, of course, that they cut the paint in this method. Keeps the paint from tacking up too quickly. And, particularly when using a spray gun as some have done, it flows better. I imagine having to rub the Model T's out with pumice and water was PITA. How tedious that would be on a bike frame....lol.
The nice thing about using Rustoleum, Tremclad, or even Brightside (a boat paint some have used) is that the paints are self leveling. It helps, of course, that they cut the paint in this method. Keeps the paint from tacking up too quickly. And, particularly when using a spray gun as some have done, it flows better. I imagine having to rub the Model T's out with pumice and water was PITA. How tedious that would be on a bike frame....lol.
#44
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I'd suggest using Epoxy Spray Paint.
It's one of the most durable spray paints.
I use it in the kids bikes since they are always wanting it different colors.
Its a very hard paint doesn't scratch or chip easy at all and they abuse it like no one can and is scratch and chip free.
Its a very hard paint doesn't scratch or chip easy at all and is chemical resistant.
And no need to clear coat.
It's one of the most durable spray paints.
I use it in the kids bikes since they are always wanting it different colors.
Its a very hard paint doesn't scratch or chip easy at all and they abuse it like no one can and is scratch and chip free.
Its a very hard paint doesn't scratch or chip easy at all and is chemical resistant.
And no need to clear coat.
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https://www.jtgraphics.net/cyclist_bicycles.htm
It may not be fancy but it gets me were I need to go.
https://www.jtgraphics.net/cyclist_bicycles.htm
#45
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Since this thread was started about a year ago, it would be nice to hear from the OP to see if he or she went with the spray bomb approach, and how it's holding up a year on. How about it Alcyon, are you still out there?
#46
Senior Member
Interesting. Something I didn't know.
The nice thing about using Rustoleum, Tremclad, or even Brightside (a boat paint some have used) is that the paints are self leveling. It helps, of course, that they cut the paint in this method. Keeps the paint from tacking up too quickly. And, particularly when using a spray gun as some have done, it flows better. I imagine having to rub the Model T's out with pumice and water was PITA. How tedious that would be on a bike frame....lol.
The nice thing about using Rustoleum, Tremclad, or even Brightside (a boat paint some have used) is that the paints are self leveling. It helps, of course, that they cut the paint in this method. Keeps the paint from tacking up too quickly. And, particularly when using a spray gun as some have done, it flows better. I imagine having to rub the Model T's out with pumice and water was PITA. How tedious that would be on a bike frame....lol.
Crazy Henry Ford started off in life as a bicycle mechanic. His first car was built mostly out of bike parts and he called it the quadracycle.
The Wright Brothers were also bike mechanics. Their first planes used chains and sprockets to drive the propellers.
#47
(rhymes with spook)
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I'd suggest using Epoxy Spray Paint.
It's one of the most durable spray paints.
I use it in the kids bikes since they are always wanting it different colors.
Its a very hard paint doesn't scratch or chip easy at all and they abuse it like no one can and is scratch and chip free.
Its a very hard paint doesn't scratch or chip easy at all and is chemical resistant.
And no need to clear coat.
It's one of the most durable spray paints.
I use it in the kids bikes since they are always wanting it different colors.
Its a very hard paint doesn't scratch or chip easy at all and they abuse it like no one can and is scratch and chip free.
Its a very hard paint doesn't scratch or chip easy at all and is chemical resistant.
And no need to clear coat.
Thanks for the info, fellas.
Fissile.......you remind of my buddy Jay. He's full of info like this. It's funny when you get him "altered". He has a hard time keeping it all in....lol!
#48
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The most durable paint you'll get in a can Its hard as hell! dosen't chip or scratch like other paints.
__________________
It may not be fancy but it gets me were I need to go.
https://www.jtgraphics.net/cyclist_bicycles.htm
It may not be fancy but it gets me were I need to go.
https://www.jtgraphics.net/cyclist_bicycles.htm
#49
(rhymes with spook)
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#50
Senior Member
has anyone had any luck going to an auto body shop and piggybacking a bike/frame paint job onto a regular car paint job?
like, getting your bike frame/fork to the painter, and when they have a car to paint, get your bike painted at the same time...hopefully on the cheap...
like, getting your bike frame/fork to the painter, and when they have a car to paint, get your bike painted at the same time...hopefully on the cheap...