look171

Is there a special tool like the one similar to a taper BB? This is Octilink(sp?), it has a bunch of splines on the BB. The big bolt has a rubber washer on it. My Dura Ace 9 sp crank is the same system, but it comes out with only one bolt and an Allen key on both crank arms. I am thinking about installing the DA crank on there. The 105 is a triple. Will the DA crank arms fit on there without issues if I can't get the 105 BB out?

bradtx

look171, Search this forum using keywords "octalink removal" and you'll find three pages of info.

Brad

AEO

for octalink? same tool will remove both drive side and NDS cranks.

just clean up the extraction threads.

operator

1) If the DA crank is a triple as well then the same octalink BB will work. If not you'll need a 109.
2) You need the Park CCP-4 or equivalent to remove both arms. Make sure you get the thin washer out of the arms before attempting extraction.

look171

So, a special crank arm removal tool is require. I don't suppose I can use or mod an old Park tool that was design for old fashion taper BBs for the spline drive set up? My DA is a double set up. Looks like I have run to a shop and get a tool. What is it that removes the crank in the DA? I usually just loosen the big Allen bolt and continue to crank and out comes the crank arms. This time, only the drive side of the 105 work that way. The Allen bolt looks different on the non drive side. It does not have the dust cap like ring with 2 dimples on it. Any ideas? I really don't feel like getting another tool, but look like I have no choice.

TLCFORBIKES

Take the self extracting bolt out of any of the arms that have it and install it in the non-drive arm. You will need the shimano tool (or a spanner tool that will fit the 2 small holes on the self extracting cap). This will work for all the square taper spindles. You can get a plug (shimano makes them) that will fit into the end of the octalink that allows your square taper crank remover tool to work with the octalink BB.

vredstein

You have a second choice. Use your old Park Tool along with this adapter.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...x?ModelID=5728

look171

Use the one on the drive side? All you need is remove the cap (the 2 holes that a spanner will fit into) and out goes the self extracting bolt. What kind of torque is needed for the DA crank on the self extracting bolts. I read somewhere that they come off if not tighten enough. I have never have that happen to me yet, but I crank the hell out of that bolt with a small pipe. I don't want to strip it.

look171

thanks

dddd

I remember my first encounter trying to remove an Octalink arm with the old puller.

I took a couple of thick washers (that were slightly smaller than the I.D. of the arm's splines) and put them in against the end of the Octalink spindle. The old tool then worked just fine, tho the washers did get cupped in the process, hence I put two of them in together to withstand the load.

The Shimano "plug" tool is good and I now have one, but I've kept those same two washers around for if/when I lose the plug.

TLCFORBIKES

I am not sure of the torque needed to tighten the cap back onto the crank. I have always applied a small amout of grease on the threads and just made sure it was snug. I have noticed (and replaced) missing caps on repairs in the past. I am sure not all of them "just fell off". Some were't put back on.

blamp28

I used this method at first too until I purchase the correct tool. This is not the correct way but may work. It's always best to have the correct tool.

HillRider

Right, and one of these (TL-FC15) came with every 9-speed Octalink 105 crank set sold as a separate component. Check with your bike shop as they may have an extra lying around.

Dura Ace and Ultegra Octalink cranks came OEM with autoextractor crank bolts but 105 did not.

fietsbob

Have had square tapered , self extracting bolts just push the threads out of the crank arm,
If they got overtightened too much and stuck.

Octalink may not come off withso much difficulty, not being taper wedged on,
but it is a larger thinner tube.

the bolt is larger , threads finer, than those on square taper BBs
so the extractor needs to be broader faced to contact the edge of that tube.

a step in the direction of so much larger a tubular spindle
that the bearings no longer fit inside the bike frame.

dddd

"Have had square tapered , self extracting bolts just push the threads out of the crank arm,
If they got overtightened too much and stuck."

Whenever a crankarm is stuck on enough to challenge the tools at hand, I recommend leaving the tool in place, fully "tensioned", then get on the bike, put the cranks horizontal (one pedal in front of the other), and apply body weight to the pedals with a sharp heave. Then turn the cranks 180-degrees backward and repeat the heave. After one or more such reversals, the spindle will have at least partially un-wedged itself, allowing for easier removal. It may be useful to re-tension the puller tool after a couple of heaves.
What this does is put a bit of twist flexing into the spindle end, allowing it to break free of it's friction bond and start to move outward off the spindle.
I've not had a crank arm fall off during this process, but it can happen (more likely with the Octalinkers, imo) so be aware of this possible "crotch" hazard, and other hazards, when heaving!