jfmckenna

Hello,

For the life of me I cannot get my front shifting adjusted properly. And it seems like I have to use excessive force to bring the chain from the small to big ring. I've got artheritise in my left wrist and it sometimes kills me just to shift. My Shimano bikes shift like butter so I don't know if this is just a campy thing or what? The only other Campy bikes I have ever had were friction shifters so this is a new to me winter bike project.

So that and I keep dropping the chain off the small ring to the BB when it's on the 21 or 24 cog and I shift from the big ring to the small. I set it up like this:

1) release cable tension and put chain on largest cog and small ring
2) set the FD so that the inner face plate just misses the chain
3) pull the cable snug and tighten
4) shift to the big ring smallest cog
5) set the FD so the outer face plate barely misses the chain

Oh and the FD is placed so it's like 1mm above the teeth on the big ring and the face plates of the derailure are dead parallel to the plane of the chain rings.

Am I doing something wrong? Is this typical of parts wearing out? Should I bend the FD in some manor?

Driving me mad

DaveSSS 

All sounds correct. Also be sure that you pushed the thumb button all the way down before attaching the cable, so the very first click of the finger lever causes the cage to move to the right.

Be sure that you have attached the FD cable properly. It is possible to route the cable such that is shortens the effective lever arm length and that will make it harder to move the the finger lever.

My other thought is that your shifters are quite old and may need an overhaul. Be sure that your cables and housing are all in good condtion.

FBinNY 

Your basic method is OK, and you do want the inner limit set so that the FD clears the chain when is low, so tightening the limit may not be an option.

You have a number of options. The first is to slightly modify your shift technique when down shifting. Lower the pedal pressure more than you do now because chain tension can sometimes cause a sort of slingshot effect when the chain disengages, and spring the chain beyond the inner ring.

You can install a jump stop to keep the chain from falling to the inside.

Increasing the chainring separation slightly with spacers often helps, but don't get carried away because that causes new problems. The .6mm spacers sold for 10s to 9s conversion may be just right.

Often, rotating the RD so it's slightly heel out helps. Again it's subtle, so only a bit.

In the dark ages FD were malleable and every skilled mechanic would tweak the cages to optimize shifting. For a problem like yours toeing in the outer cage plate a bit often did the trick. That;s not an oprion for you because modern cages often crack before bending, but if all else fails, cut a thin shim and glut it to the front of the outer plate. You'll need to file a ramp on the leading (toward the back of the bike) so the chain doesn't snag and rip it off. Closing the toe area will initiate the shift sooner, and often helps keep chains on.

Al1943

If your cables and housing are old they need to be replaced. I started having problems with mine recently (10-speed Record) because I let the cables and housings go too long. Actually Campagnolo calls them casings instead of housings. They have a kit to replace all shift and brake cables and housings.
Hosing out the shifters with WD 40 can also help a lot.

jfmckenna

ok thanks for the advice. The cables and housing are brand new. I'll check her over once more and hope for the best.

Al1943

I'd shoot it full of WD 40.