Serotta F2 fork question
#1
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Serotta F2 fork question
Howdy
I've decided to ditch a noodly EC90 SLx and put on this F2 I've had collecting dust in my garage for some time.
It's a used fork I got on trade from a dude with a big head tube, and I'm a little guy.. so I'll be chopping it down from long to short. What's the deal with this glued in plug? Do I need to demo that sucker out and glue it back in after the chop, or can I discard and use a regular compression plug?
Thanks
-B
I've decided to ditch a noodly EC90 SLx and put on this F2 I've had collecting dust in my garage for some time.
It's a used fork I got on trade from a dude with a big head tube, and I'm a little guy.. so I'll be chopping it down from long to short. What's the deal with this glued in plug? Do I need to demo that sucker out and glue it back in after the chop, or can I discard and use a regular compression plug?
Thanks
-B
#2
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#3
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Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Many CF forks depend on the buttressing of the glued in steel sleeve to meet their design strength. It serves two purposes. First it allows an anchor for the compression plug without the risk of expanding the tube itself by over-tightening. This is no a critical need if you're not hamfisted.
The second and more important function is that it carries expansion stress below the headset, and the stress fulcrum at the top of the lower bearing. IMO, this is the more important function, both preventing potential failure there, and providing some degree of backup attachment in the event the tube does crack. More and more we're seeing CF fork makers move to systems where the plug is inserted deeper for this very reason.
My advice is to try to salvage the liner tube if possible, or source a new one. Or, if going without, use one of the newer style longer/deeper plugs that extends down below the upper bearing.
The second and more important function is that it carries expansion stress below the headset, and the stress fulcrum at the top of the lower bearing. IMO, this is the more important function, both preventing potential failure there, and providing some degree of backup attachment in the event the tube does crack. More and more we're seeing CF fork makers move to systems where the plug is inserted deeper for this very reason.
My advice is to try to salvage the liner tube if possible, or source a new one. Or, if going without, use one of the newer style longer/deeper plugs that extends down below the upper bearing.
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FB
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FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
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#6
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I dont see a Problem, It solves the loose compression nut problem in CF steerers with a Permanent cure
You pick, Your choice , maybe have a Pro Shop do it, if you are not confident in your skills. own a Saw Guide already ?
What's the deal with this glued in plug? Do I need to demo that sucker out and glue it back in after the chop, or can I discard and use a regular compression plug?
Last edited by fietsbob; 03-27-15 at 05:06 PM.
#7
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
If that's a glued in plug, that's it. If it's an expander, you'll see a hex socket larger than the 6mm thread which allows adjustment of the expansion wedges
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#10
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
OK, then fee free to lose it if you're cutting the fork, and go with an expander. Just use some sense and don't overtighten the expander which is the most common mistake people make.
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FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#11
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From: Los Barriles, Baja Sur, Mexico
Bikes: Look 585, Kirk Terraplane, Serotta Ottrott, Spectrum Super Custom, Hampsten Carbon Leger Tournesol
The Serotta F2 fork was made by Reynolds for Serotta, it was a slightly modified Ouzo. It came with the Reynolds expander plug, not a glue-in like yours has.
If you have the necessary steer tube length to suit you below that plug, it will be safe to cut the steerer and use a conventional expander.
If you have the necessary steer tube length to suit you below that plug, it will be safe to cut the steerer and use a conventional expander.





