Brev. Galli 35x1 Bottom Bracket
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Brev. Galli 35x1 Bottom Bracket
Hi there!
I've recently got a french frame with Reynolds 531 tubes.
It has a bottom bracket "Brev Galli", 35x1.
The thing is, I can't find any information about this bottom bracket on the internet. I found some Galli's, but they are all 36x24, not 35x1.
Anyone has any information about it?
Thanks a lot!!
I've recently got a french frame with Reynolds 531 tubes.
It has a bottom bracket "Brev Galli", 35x1.
The thing is, I can't find any information about this bottom bracket on the internet. I found some Galli's, but they are all 36x24, not 35x1.
Anyone has any information about it?
Thanks a lot!!
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Hi there!
I've recently got a french frame with Reynolds 531 tubes.
It has a bottom bracket "Brev Galli", 35x1.
The thing is, I can't find any information about this bottom bracket on the internet. I found some Galli's, but they are all 36x24, not 35x1.
Anyone has any information about it?
Thanks a lot!!
I've recently got a french frame with Reynolds 531 tubes.
It has a bottom bracket "Brev Galli", 35x1.
The thing is, I can't find any information about this bottom bracket on the internet. I found some Galli's, but they are all 36x24, not 35x1.
Anyone has any information about it?
Thanks a lot!!
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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It's a French threaded bottom bracket with 35mm x 1.0 mm threading. The 36mmx24tpi reference you found means some had Italian threaded bottom brackets but not this one.
French threaded cups and bottom brackets are still available but not common. Velo Orange sells a JIS square taper cartridge bottom bracket with French threading in a variety of spindle lengths for $50 and Phil Wood ($$$$) also sells French threaded cups for their bottom brackets. You are out of luck if you want to use a more current HTII or similar external thread bottom bracket and crank.
Also, check if the steerer threading, headset, stem and handlebars are French sizes as these will be hard to find.
French threaded cups and bottom brackets are still available but not common. Velo Orange sells a JIS square taper cartridge bottom bracket with French threading in a variety of spindle lengths for $50 and Phil Wood ($$$$) also sells French threaded cups for their bottom brackets. You are out of luck if you want to use a more current HTII or similar external thread bottom bracket and crank.
Also, check if the steerer threading, headset, stem and handlebars are French sizes as these will be hard to find.
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??? Are you saying they can be used interchangeably? You know that's not correct. French has very limited availability, Italian is far more common.
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Thanks for all the answers.
The frame is quite complete, I mean that it has the headset, stem and the seatpost (a 3ttt made for Galli), and they are all quite in good shape. That goes to the Galli bottom bracket.
So, instead of replacing it, I was thinking of greasing it.
I've read in Sheldon's page that both sides of the bottom bracket use right threading (anti-clockwise to unscrew, right?)
The frame is quite complete, I mean that it has the headset, stem and the seatpost (a 3ttt made for Galli), and they are all quite in good shape. That goes to the Galli bottom bracket.
So, instead of replacing it, I was thinking of greasing it.
I've read in Sheldon's page that both sides of the bottom bracket use right threading (anti-clockwise to unscrew, right?)
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Oh, and one more thing...
I need to get a crankset. I have no idea which measurement take into account.
Could someone guide me in what kind of crankset I need to look up so that it suits this bottom bracket?
Thanks a lot.
I need to get a crankset. I have no idea which measurement take into account.
Could someone guide me in what kind of crankset I need to look up so that it suits this bottom bracket?
Thanks a lot.
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The Galli bottom bracket is somewhat unusual in that it uses roller bearings rather than balls or sealed cartridges. Are you looking to replace it or just trying to find information about it?
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Yes, exactly like that. I mean, I didn't disassemble it yet, but it has both lockrings. In that link it doesn't appear my "35x1" bottom bracket, though.
I just want to grease it, but didn't know how to unscrew it as I didn't find information in the web.
I guess replacing it would be quite complicated, ain't it? I've read there are some new sealed bottom brackets that would fit in it.
Anyway, it still seems to work. So I'll grease it and keep it. I guess both threads should be right, as it is the French old standard?
I just want to grease it, but didn't know how to unscrew it as I didn't find information in the web.
I guess replacing it would be quite complicated, ain't it? I've read there are some new sealed bottom brackets that would fit in it.
Anyway, it still seems to work. So I'll grease it and keep it. I guess both threads should be right, as it is the French old standard?
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Are the current cups worn or damaged? If not, just clean everything off, re-grease and reassemble. If you do need to replace it, a metric thread Velo-Orange or Phil cartridge with the same length spindle ought to work.
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French bottom brackets are right-hand threaded on both sides. What I don't know about your particular bottom bracket is what is the taper, ISO or JIS?
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I believe it's ISO!
Here are some photos:
Any advice on how to unscrew it and grease it?
I should only unscrew the left (non chain) side, right?
Here are some photos:
Any advice on how to unscrew it and grease it?
I should only unscrew the left (non chain) side, right?
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You only need to remove one side unless you're replacing the unit. Just take it apart and clean it like a standard loose-ball bottom bracket. The fact that both sides are adjustable means you can fine tune the chainline, if necessary.
#17
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Here are a couple links on overhauling cup and cone BBs:
https://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html
https://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbadj.html
All you need to do is measure the spindle length and find a crank that works with that length. This is a very general statement but most old road double cranks *should probably* work with your BB.
This database is a good starting point: Sheldon Brown's Bottom Bracket Size Database
https://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html
https://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbadj.html
This database is a good starting point: Sheldon Brown's Bottom Bracket Size Database
Last edited by FastJake; 04-13-15 at 08:37 AM.
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So the spindle length is 113 mm.
It has assymetrical tapers, with an offset of 5 mm in the right one.
Does that has any importance when looking for a crankset? If so, how does it change anything?
Thanks a lot for your knowledge!
It has assymetrical tapers, with an offset of 5 mm in the right one.
Does that has any importance when looking for a crankset? If so, how does it change anything?
Thanks a lot for your knowledge!
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Spindle length and crank offset add together to determine chainline, and crank arm position. Over the years more of that was moved from the spindle to the cranks, so for example, 50 years ago Campagnolo Cranks used a 120mm spindle. As they brought out new generations, that was shortened in increments until they were down to 103mm before discontinuing Sq. taper.
So you have to get cranks, made around an asymmetrical 113mm or so spindle. So shop period correct cranks, or you can probably use Campagnolo Veloce or Daytona cranks from the late 90s, though Record and Chorus of that period took 103mm.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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Hi, I'm back!
So I disassembled the Galli bottom bracket. Everything looked fine. I cleaned it, re-grease it and thread it back in. I played with the adjustable cup AND the lockring until it was smooth and without any lateral movement.
The thing is, when I move the axle, it's smooth but not regular. I mean, there're a couple of parts in which it's a little bit stiff. Not very stiff; it's just not a smooth and continuous movement.
The roller bearing looked really great, there are really no traces of anything being wrong.
So, what does this not-regular-turning means?
Any help would be great! Thanks.
So I disassembled the Galli bottom bracket. Everything looked fine. I cleaned it, re-grease it and thread it back in. I played with the adjustable cup AND the lockring until it was smooth and without any lateral movement.
The thing is, when I move the axle, it's smooth but not regular. I mean, there're a couple of parts in which it's a little bit stiff. Not very stiff; it's just not a smooth and continuous movement.
The roller bearing looked really great, there are really no traces of anything being wrong.
So, what does this not-regular-turning means?
Any help would be great! Thanks.
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Just found a set of Galli road arms (144mm BCD) in my parts bin, if you still need a crank. Some rub marks from the toe straps, but overall decent condition:
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The facing is more likely the culprit than the threading but in either case you'll need to find someone with a French standard BB tap / face cutter set. They were never common (outside France), they're now as rare as right wing rationality, your best bet is an old fashioned shop or to hope someone on this forum has one and you can get the frame to them.
Last edited by Mark Kelly; 04-26-15 at 06:46 PM.
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It probably means that the BB threads are not in perfect alignment and / or the BB faces are not perfectly square. Roller bearings are far less tolerant of misalignment than ball bearings.
The facing is more likely the culprit than the threading but in either case you'll need to find someone with a French standard BB tap / face cutter set. They were never common (outside France), they're now as rare as right wing rationality, your best bet is an old fashioned shop or to hope someone on this forum has one and you can get the frame to them.
The facing is more likely the culprit than the threading but in either case you'll need to find someone with a French standard BB tap / face cutter set. They were never common (outside France), they're now as rare as right wing rationality, your best bet is an old fashioned shop or to hope someone on this forum has one and you can get the frame to them.
And does it have any sense for a frame of this quality (artisan framing, great raccords, all reynolds 531) to have a BB with not perfectly square faces?!
It would be awesome... That depends if I can still reuse the BB!!