Bottom Bracket - Plastic Cup
#1
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Bottom Bracket - Plastic Cup
Hi there.
I've installed my Shimano BB-UN26 square type bottom bracket to my bike with one question.
I've applied specified torque to drive side first then attached the plastic cup of BB.
But the outer edge of plastic cup does not sit flush to the frame when screwed all the way in. 3-4 threads are visible.
Is it normal? Please answer.
Best regards to all.
I've installed my Shimano BB-UN26 square type bottom bracket to my bike with one question.
I've applied specified torque to drive side first then attached the plastic cup of BB.
But the outer edge of plastic cup does not sit flush to the frame when screwed all the way in. 3-4 threads are visible.
Is it normal? Please answer.
Best regards to all.
#3
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
Likes: 649
From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
That's what I was thinking too. I'm thinking the shell width should be marked on the cartridge. that number should match your bottom bracket shell width. How does the space between your left pedal and the chainstay compare with your right pedal distance? That's not a 100% test, but it will get you in the ballpark.
I like to just start the drive side of the bottom bracket and then install the nylon non-drive side first. I can't bring myself to put 30 ft/lbs of torque on the nylon part either. Then, lastly, I torque down the drive side.
I like to just start the drive side of the bottom bracket and then install the nylon non-drive side first. I can't bring myself to put 30 ft/lbs of torque on the nylon part either. Then, lastly, I torque down the drive side.
__________________
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
#5
I've never damaged a plastic cup by applying full specified torque. You are using a torque wrench and following Shimano's instructions (grease on threads & torque value), right?
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,033
Likes: 2
From: Belgium
This is normal.
Here is the sequence that is used to install:
1. Tighten the drive side cup in place.
2. Tighten the plastic cup in place to the correct torque.
3. Back off the drive side cup a little and then tighten the plastic cup a tiny bit.
4. Re-tighten the drive side cup to the correct torque spec.
You may still have a small gap between the lip on the plastic cup and the face of the bottom bracket shell...do not be bothered by this.
One other thing you can do is wrap the threads of the cups with teflon tape (plubers tape)...it helps to prevent the development of bottom bracket creaks.
-j
Here is the sequence that is used to install:
1. Tighten the drive side cup in place.
2. Tighten the plastic cup in place to the correct torque.
3. Back off the drive side cup a little and then tighten the plastic cup a tiny bit.
4. Re-tighten the drive side cup to the correct torque spec.
You may still have a small gap between the lip on the plastic cup and the face of the bottom bracket shell...do not be bothered by this.
One other thing you can do is wrap the threads of the cups with teflon tape (plubers tape)...it helps to prevent the development of bottom bracket creaks.
-j
#7
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 22,676
Likes: 2,642
From: CID
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
+1. The torque between the cup and the cartridge unit is what's most important, not that the lip seats perfectly against the bottom bracket shell.
#8
Passista


Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,247
Likes: 1,211
Bikes: 1998 Pinarello Asolo, 1992 KHS Montaña pro, 1980 Raleigh DL-1, IGH Hybrid, IGH Utility
I've noticed this too, plastic cups sometimes aren't consistent with the BB they come with. Some threads exposed isn't pretty, but no problem either.
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,033
Likes: 2
From: Belgium
This is normal.
Here is the sequence that is used to install:
1. Tighten the drive side cup in place.
2. Tighten the plastic cup in place to the correct torque.
3. Back off the drive side cup a little and then tighten the plastic cup a tiny bit.
4. Re-tighten the drive side cup to the correct torque spec.
You may still have a small gap between the lip on the plastic cup and the face of the bottom bracket shell...do not be bothered by this.
One other thing you can do is wrap the threads of the cups with teflon tape (plubers tape)...it helps to prevent the development of bottom bracket creaks.
-j
Here is the sequence that is used to install:
1. Tighten the drive side cup in place.
2. Tighten the plastic cup in place to the correct torque.
3. Back off the drive side cup a little and then tighten the plastic cup a tiny bit.
4. Re-tighten the drive side cup to the correct torque spec.
You may still have a small gap between the lip on the plastic cup and the face of the bottom bracket shell...do not be bothered by this.
One other thing you can do is wrap the threads of the cups with teflon tape (plubers tape)...it helps to prevent the development of bottom bracket creaks.
-j
1. Tighten the drive side cup in place to the correct torque spec.
2. Tighten the plastic cup in place.
3. Back off the drive side cup a little and then tighten the plastic cup a tiny bit.
4. Re-tighten the drive side cup to the correct torque spec.
#10
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 22,676
Likes: 2,642
From: CID
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
I must have been half asleep when I wrote the above...here is the correction
1. Tighten the drive side cup in place to the correct torque spec.
2. Tighten the plastic cup in place.
3. Back off the drive side cup a little and then tighten the plastic cup a tiny bit.
4. Re-tighten the drive side cup to the correct torque spec.
1. Tighten the drive side cup in place to the correct torque spec.
2. Tighten the plastic cup in place.
3. Back off the drive side cup a little and then tighten the plastic cup a tiny bit.
4. Re-tighten the drive side cup to the correct torque spec.
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,033
Likes: 2
From: Belgium
...this would lead one to believe shimano expects the plastic adapter to be tightened to 50-70NM which will likely result in destruction of the plastic splines where the metal install tool interfaces or cause the plastic cup to otherwise break.
The 50-70NM is the torque spec for the metal drive side cup. The issue then becomes how tight to make the plastic cup and the general consensus is tight enough that it properly supports the cartridge and won't come loose. To achieve this you need to install the metal drive side cup first to torque and then back it off a hair...then install the plastic cup until it does not thread in further and then tighten the metal cup to the proper torque spec again which will press the cartridge against the plastic cup snuggly enough that it should not back out and will properly support the BB cartridge.
Nothing greater for a newbie mechanic to destroy their part on installation while following the manufacturers vague instructions...had a friend do this in my garage as he got overzealous and did not wait for me as I stepped out to take a phone call. I came back in and found him sulking over the broken part and the install sheet that came in the package. Luckily nothing else was damaged (frame/cartridge) as I had a spare cup in my parts bin and we got the install done properly.
-j
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
YourCousin
Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
12
07-22-16 07:51 PM
bobotech
Bicycle Mechanics
3
05-20-13 09:23 AM






