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-   -   Handlebar conversion - Drop to .. something else (https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/1019533-handlebar-conversion-drop-something-else.html)

gwill1010 07-18-15 05:39 PM

Handlebar conversion - Drop to .. something else
 
I bought my first road bike. I'm finding that this old mans back is not tolerating will.

I'm thinkging changing the handlebars will help till I lose some weight and get into better shape. I have a few options regarding handlebars. It has ultegra 6500 & 105s, 9x3.

Flat bar - new sifters, front derailleur & brakes I understand.

I've been looking at butterfly handlebars. My question is can I use the ultegra shifters/brakes with this or similar handlebar?
http://www.amazon.com/Mountain-Trekk...27++handlebars

The bike (I'm thinking I want to keep it):
Trek Road bike - 2200 - 58cm.

Thanks so much for help.

Jeff Wills 07-18-15 06:10 PM

Those butterfly handlebars accept the same shifters & brake levers as flat bars, so you're not saving anything.

Have you had a professional bicycle fitting? Drop bars have their advantages, but they tend to be mounted too low for the old and inflexible. A taller stem with a shorter reach might make your current bike work for you while you adjust to it.

Marcus_Ti 07-18-15 06:15 PM


Originally Posted by Jeff Wills (Post 17992491)
Those butterfly handlebars accept the same shifters & brake levers as flat bars, so you're not saving anything.

Have you had a professional bicycle fitting? Drop bars have their advantages, but they tend to be mounted too low for the old and inflexible. A taller stem with a shorter reach might make your current bike work for you while you adjust to it.

Also a fitting and chaing stem etc is probably far cheaper than replacing shifters/handlebar/stem/labor for all of said at a minimum.

Trailroaster 07-18-15 06:17 PM

If you plan to change it for some short time, may be wiser (and cheaper) to change the stem for one with more raise and slightly shorter to compensate the different reach instead of changing the handlebar, brake and shifters.

Regarding your pains. Have you got assistance to fit the bike to your physical dimensions? This is very important.

oddjob2 07-18-15 06:24 PM

If you're riding the TREK as shown, IMHO, that frame is a little small. But overall, the stem looks kind of long too, given how far out the brifters are ahead of the axle.

gwill1010 07-18-15 07:03 PM

No, I did not have a professional fitting. Little late now.

Appreciate the comments.

dabac 07-19-15 02:36 AM

Although somewhat frowned upon, there are steerer tube extenders available, which - particularly with a shorter stem - will do wonders for moving the bars in and up.
Drop bar levers rarely do OK on flat bars. The (usually) smaller diameter can be dealt with, but drop bar levers really need to sit on an outside bend to work OK.
Some have mounted drop bar levers on North Road/moustache bars and been happy with that.

fietsbob 07-19-15 08:13 AM

I got Mustache bars , that Nitto Makes , It used a tube size compatible with Road levers .. But..

the levers lay horizontal so your Brifter function will become unwieldy ..
to swing sideways to up shift, They really need be Upright.

I used older Campag Road Levers , and the gear shifters were in the bar ends.

for the high end fitness bike market there are road derailleur flat bar controls found via Australia and Europe Shimano ..

Yellowbeard 07-19-15 08:35 AM

Albatross bars, and keep your road levers.

Clem von Jones 07-19-15 11:13 AM

Try a different stem to raise the bars while you lose weight and gain strength. Don't give up on drop bars, they actually are more comfortable than flat bars.

Use this tool to help you determine the bar placement. Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net

ThermionicScott 07-19-15 12:52 PM

It might be hard to find a stem with more rise, but a shorter one would definitely bring the bars and brake levers in. The drop bars pictured on that bike look to have a lot of reach and drop -- consider "compact drops" like Soma's Highway 1 bars to bring the brake levers even closer, and the drop position up and inward.

That may be all you need to start loving drops, and you could be spared the expense of replacing brake levers, shifters, etc. :thumb:

Jeff Wills 07-19-15 07:27 PM


Originally Posted by gwill1010 (Post 17992598)
No, I did not have a professional fitting. Little late now.

Appreciate the comments.

A professional fitter will take your existing bike and customize it to fit you. I've seen bikes set up by Micheal Sylvester (Bicycle Fitting Services) and they look weird, but their owners swear by them. If it can't be done, well... there's your sign.

Dave Cutter 07-19-15 07:56 PM


Originally Posted by gwill1010 (Post 17992409)
I bought my first road bike. I'm finding that this old mans back is not tolerating will.

Borrow a (or even buy a cheapie) sit-up-and-beg, upright style bike to try.... if you really think that's the solution (to an old back). I'll bet you won't find relief.

Being an old man with a bad back myself.... Just mowing my grass on my riding mower can make my back hurt. Because my spine is forced to absorb every little jolt or shock as I ride around sitting upright. Those little pads between the bones just don't have the pillowy cush they once had.

However.... I have found that a properly set-up and fitted road bike doesn't transfer shock or stress to my back. I do like the brake hoods nearly level with the saddle. And I try not to let myself be too stretched-out ether. But otherwise my set-ups (I have more than one road bike) are basic normal standard road bike cycling fair. My bikes look normal with no special alterations.

I do, do a few core exercises (likely some of the same ones the therapist tried to get me to do) in the off season. A stronger core... makes almost everything better/easier. But the slight soreness I experienced at first while cycling was more than worth the benefits I've since enjoyed.

When done correctly.... your weight and all the jolts and road shock... will be more or less equality transferred to "the three contact points". Those points being your feet, hands, and butt (or handlebar, pedals, and saddle). Notice... none of the points are your back. When in a sit-up position... I can assure you your back will be where you'll feel any pothole or obstruction.

Be sure to "perch" yourself on the bike... properly distributing the weight. Do stand up and pedal every few minutes. bend your arms at the elbows. Try to stay loose and limber.

marlowe 07-20-15 07:10 AM

I too suffered from being old and bending over. New bars didn't slow the age but I placed Jones H-bars on my bike and it was my solution to the bending over and back issue. They are somewhat expensive. Here is a link to Jeff Jones site: www.jonesbikes.com
Marlowe

gwill1010 07-20-15 07:11 AM

good stuff, thanks.

I've ordered a shorter stem. Not sure why I didn't think of this.

Grand Bois 07-20-15 10:12 AM


Originally Posted by Yellowbeard (Post 17993586)
Albatross bars, and keep your road levers.

Road levers won't fit.

fietsbob 07-20-15 10:26 AM

Nitto's Mustache bars are road bar diameter ..

Yellowbeard 07-20-15 11:26 AM


Originally Posted by Grand Bois (Post 17996691)
Road levers won't fit.

Won't fit where? Clamp diameter can be fudged/shimmed.

Put the levers at the front bend (with the bars sweeping down instead of up) instead of the grip area and there's just as much room as on drops.

I'm just throwing this out there because it's my favourite non-drops setup. More relaxed and comfortable than drops, more agressive/versatile than cruiser-style. Better braking, too. Flat bars just suck.

rmfnla 07-21-15 10:57 AM


Originally Posted by gwill1010 (Post 17996086)
good stuff, thanks.

I've ordered a shorter stem. Not sure why I didn't think of this.

Shorter stem will bring the bars in but also a bit down...

janet0 07-21-15 01:51 PM

Try a different stem to raise the bars while you lose weight and gain strength. Don't give up on drop bars, they actually are more comfortable than flat bars.http://wigunpics.science/17/g.png


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