Handlebar conversion - Drop to .. something else
#1
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Handlebar conversion - Drop to .. something else
I bought my first road bike. I'm finding that this old mans back is not tolerating will.
I'm thinkging changing the handlebars will help till I lose some weight and get into better shape. I have a few options regarding handlebars. It has ultegra 6500 & 105s, 9x3.
Flat bar - new sifters, front derailleur & brakes I understand.
I've been looking at butterfly handlebars. My question is can I use the ultegra shifters/brakes with this or similar handlebar?
https://www.amazon.com/Mountain-Trekk...27++handlebars
The bike (I'm thinking I want to keep it):
Trek Road bike - 2200 - 58cm.
Thanks so much for help.
I'm thinkging changing the handlebars will help till I lose some weight and get into better shape. I have a few options regarding handlebars. It has ultegra 6500 & 105s, 9x3.
Flat bar - new sifters, front derailleur & brakes I understand.
I've been looking at butterfly handlebars. My question is can I use the ultegra shifters/brakes with this or similar handlebar?
https://www.amazon.com/Mountain-Trekk...27++handlebars
The bike (I'm thinking I want to keep it):
Trek Road bike - 2200 - 58cm.
Thanks so much for help.
#2
Those butterfly handlebars accept the same shifters & brake levers as flat bars, so you're not saving anything.
Have you had a professional bicycle fitting? Drop bars have their advantages, but they tend to be mounted too low for the old and inflexible. A taller stem with a shorter reach might make your current bike work for you while you adjust to it.
Have you had a professional bicycle fitting? Drop bars have their advantages, but they tend to be mounted too low for the old and inflexible. A taller stem with a shorter reach might make your current bike work for you while you adjust to it.
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#3
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Joined: Sep 2014
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From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Bikes: Roadie: Seven Axiom Race Ti w/Chorus 11s. CX/Adventure: Carver Gravel Grinder w/ Di2
Those butterfly handlebars accept the same shifters & brake levers as flat bars, so you're not saving anything.
Have you had a professional bicycle fitting? Drop bars have their advantages, but they tend to be mounted too low for the old and inflexible. A taller stem with a shorter reach might make your current bike work for you while you adjust to it.
Have you had a professional bicycle fitting? Drop bars have their advantages, but they tend to be mounted too low for the old and inflexible. A taller stem with a shorter reach might make your current bike work for you while you adjust to it.
#4
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Joined: Jul 2015
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From: Madrid, Spain
Bikes: 2015 Giant Trance 27.5" 2 Ltd. & 2015 Giant AnyRoad 1
If you plan to change it for some short time, may be wiser (and cheaper) to change the stem for one with more raise and slightly shorter to compensate the different reach instead of changing the handlebar, brake and shifters.
Regarding your pains. Have you got assistance to fit the bike to your physical dimensions? This is very important.
Regarding your pains. Have you got assistance to fit the bike to your physical dimensions? This is very important.
#5
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Joined: May 2012
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From: North of Canada, Adirondacks
Bikes: Still a garage full
If you're riding the TREK as shown, IMHO, that frame is a little small. But overall, the stem looks kind of long too, given how far out the brifters are ahead of the axle.
#7
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Joined: Mar 2008
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Although somewhat frowned upon, there are steerer tube extenders available, which - particularly with a shorter stem - will do wonders for moving the bars in and up.
Drop bar levers rarely do OK on flat bars. The (usually) smaller diameter can be dealt with, but drop bar levers really need to sit on an outside bend to work OK.
Some have mounted drop bar levers on North Road/moustache bars and been happy with that.
Drop bar levers rarely do OK on flat bars. The (usually) smaller diameter can be dealt with, but drop bar levers really need to sit on an outside bend to work OK.
Some have mounted drop bar levers on North Road/moustache bars and been happy with that.
#8
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
I got Mustache bars , that Nitto Makes , It used a tube size compatible with Road levers .. But..
the levers lay horizontal so your Brifter function will become unwieldy ..
to swing sideways to up shift, They really need be Upright.
I used older Campag Road Levers , and the gear shifters were in the bar ends.
for the high end fitness bike market there are road derailleur flat bar controls found via Australia and Europe Shimano ..
the levers lay horizontal so your Brifter function will become unwieldy ..
to swing sideways to up shift, They really need be Upright.
I used older Campag Road Levers , and the gear shifters were in the bar ends.
for the high end fitness bike market there are road derailleur flat bar controls found via Australia and Europe Shimano ..
Last edited by fietsbob; 07-19-15 at 08:17 AM.
#10
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Joined: Sep 2008
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Try a different stem to raise the bars while you lose weight and gain strength. Don't give up on drop bars, they actually are more comfortable than flat bars.
Use this tool to help you determine the bar placement. Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net
Use this tool to help you determine the bar placement. Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net
#11
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: CID
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
It might be hard to find a stem with more rise, but a shorter one would definitely bring the bars and brake levers in. The drop bars pictured on that bike look to have a lot of reach and drop -- consider "compact drops" like Soma's Highway 1 bars to bring the brake levers even closer, and the drop position up and inward.
That may be all you need to start loving drops, and you could be spared the expense of replacing brake levers, shifters, etc.
That may be all you need to start loving drops, and you could be spared the expense of replacing brake levers, shifters, etc.
#12
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#13
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Joined: Oct 2013
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From: D'uh... I am a Cutter
Bikes: '17 Access Old Turnpike Gravel bike, '14 Trek 1.1, '13 Cannondale CAAD 10, '98 CAD 2, R300
Being an old man with a bad back myself.... Just mowing my grass on my riding mower can make my back hurt. Because my spine is forced to absorb every little jolt or shock as I ride around sitting upright. Those little pads between the bones just don't have the pillowy cush they once had.
However.... I have found that a properly set-up and fitted road bike doesn't transfer shock or stress to my back. I do like the brake hoods nearly level with the saddle. And I try not to let myself be too stretched-out ether. But otherwise my set-ups (I have more than one road bike) are basic normal standard road bike cycling fair. My bikes look normal with no special alterations.
I do, do a few core exercises (likely some of the same ones the therapist tried to get me to do) in the off season. A stronger core... makes almost everything better/easier. But the slight soreness I experienced at first while cycling was more than worth the benefits I've since enjoyed.
When done correctly.... your weight and all the jolts and road shock... will be more or less equality transferred to "the three contact points". Those points being your feet, hands, and butt (or handlebar, pedals, and saddle). Notice... none of the points are your back. When in a sit-up position... I can assure you your back will be where you'll feel any pothole or obstruction.
Be sure to "perch" yourself on the bike... properly distributing the weight. Do stand up and pedal every few minutes. bend your arms at the elbows. Try to stay loose and limber.
Last edited by Dave Cutter; 07-19-15 at 08:02 PM.
#14
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Joined: May 2012
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From: Great Falls, MT
Bikes: Surly Disc LHT, Surly Ogre, Schwinn LeTour, Specialized Rock Hopper
I too suffered from being old and bending over. New bars didn't slow the age but I placed Jones H-bars on my bike and it was my solution to the bending over and back issue. They are somewhat expensive. Here is a link to Jeff Jones site: www.jonesbikes.com
Marlowe
Marlowe
#18
Won't fit where? Clamp diameter can be fudged/shimmed.
Put the levers at the front bend (with the bars sweeping down instead of up) instead of the grip area and there's just as much room as on drops.
I'm just throwing this out there because it's my favourite non-drops setup. More relaxed and comfortable than drops, more agressive/versatile than cruiser-style. Better braking, too. Flat bars just suck.
Put the levers at the front bend (with the bars sweeping down instead of up) instead of the grip area and there's just as much room as on drops.
I'm just throwing this out there because it's my favourite non-drops setup. More relaxed and comfortable than drops, more agressive/versatile than cruiser-style. Better braking, too. Flat bars just suck.
Last edited by Yellowbeard; 07-22-15 at 08:32 AM. Reason: Flat bars just suck
#19
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 6,301
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From: La La Land (We love it!)
Bikes: Gilmour road, Curtlo road; both steel (of course)
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