Stem length and handlebar width, dilemma
#1
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Stem length and handlebar width, dilemma
Hi, recently I had changed my stem and handlebar.
I am riding a 50cm roadbike and my original stem is 110mm with a 400mm CtoC handblebar. The shape is ergonomic/anatomic/whatever you call it that doesn't look like a classic drop bar. The reach is quite far, about 85mm. The drops is around 145mm.
My weight is around 75kg and my height is about 175cm. My shoulder width is about 42cm.
Since I bought the bike, I had adjusted my seatpost and saddle to a position i am very comfortable at. Meanwhile, the handlebar I had it lowered till there wasn't any spacers between stem and bike frame. I had also rotated the handlebar down slightly.
For the original parts, during downhill when I hold the drop bars, the back of my neck is quite painful as it is hard for me to reach the brake levers, I had to lower down my body till my arm is almost in a L shape. Next, during climbs, I noticed I would hold the outer edge corner of the flatbar and even then, my elbows would bend quite a bit. It seems like I am trying to expand my chest more.
Then I did some reading and now I had changed the stem to 100mm and my handlebars to 440mm CtoC. Reach is 75mm with a 130mm drops. Classic drop bars. I lowered the shifters a little, so when I hold the drops, my fingers are able to reach the brake levers easily now.
I haven't got the chance to ride it yet but when I sat on the bike, it feels more comfortable now but I can feel my arms spread out when holding the hoods. When I hold the flat bar, I feel very relaxed and comfortable too, it doesn't feel tight like previously. Though, I can feel it is a lot more upright now compared to last time. Also, when I hold the hoods, I can see the hub in front of the flat bar. Where else when I hold the flat bar, I can't see the front hub and my tyres looks longer than last time.
Question is, I really haven't got a chance to ride but the LBS is offering to swap the stem back to 110mm by tomorrow, should I do this?
As for the handlebar, is 44cm too big now? I kinda regret that I took the 44cm now cos it feels really wide. What is the downside of a wide drop bars? Is it better for climbing now, on the flatbars?
Thank you and I do apologize for the amazingly long text...
I am riding a 50cm roadbike and my original stem is 110mm with a 400mm CtoC handblebar. The shape is ergonomic/anatomic/whatever you call it that doesn't look like a classic drop bar. The reach is quite far, about 85mm. The drops is around 145mm.
My weight is around 75kg and my height is about 175cm. My shoulder width is about 42cm.
Since I bought the bike, I had adjusted my seatpost and saddle to a position i am very comfortable at. Meanwhile, the handlebar I had it lowered till there wasn't any spacers between stem and bike frame. I had also rotated the handlebar down slightly.
For the original parts, during downhill when I hold the drop bars, the back of my neck is quite painful as it is hard for me to reach the brake levers, I had to lower down my body till my arm is almost in a L shape. Next, during climbs, I noticed I would hold the outer edge corner of the flatbar and even then, my elbows would bend quite a bit. It seems like I am trying to expand my chest more.
Then I did some reading and now I had changed the stem to 100mm and my handlebars to 440mm CtoC. Reach is 75mm with a 130mm drops. Classic drop bars. I lowered the shifters a little, so when I hold the drops, my fingers are able to reach the brake levers easily now.
I haven't got the chance to ride it yet but when I sat on the bike, it feels more comfortable now but I can feel my arms spread out when holding the hoods. When I hold the flat bar, I feel very relaxed and comfortable too, it doesn't feel tight like previously. Though, I can feel it is a lot more upright now compared to last time. Also, when I hold the hoods, I can see the hub in front of the flat bar. Where else when I hold the flat bar, I can't see the front hub and my tyres looks longer than last time.
Question is, I really haven't got a chance to ride but the LBS is offering to swap the stem back to 110mm by tomorrow, should I do this?
As for the handlebar, is 44cm too big now? I kinda regret that I took the 44cm now cos it feels really wide. What is the downside of a wide drop bars? Is it better for climbing now, on the flatbars?
Thank you and I do apologize for the amazingly long text...
#2
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Joined: Jul 2013
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From: NJ cellphone central
Bikes: Surly Ogre // (old and gone) Cannondale ST400, Rockhopper Sport
Ride it and see how you feel, truly. The "standards" don't really matter if they don't apply to an individual, so just try it and see.
The LBS should swap you a stem after a few rides too unless you bought some oddball high end stem. Most of them have a drawer full of basic stems to swap around.
The LBS should swap you a stem after a few rides too unless you bought some oddball high end stem. Most of them have a drawer full of basic stems to swap around.
#3
pan y agua

Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 31,812
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From: Jacksonville
Bikes: Willier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Calfee Dragonfly tandem, Calfee Adventure tandem; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Motebecanne Phantom Cross; Schwinn Paramount Track bike
As for "too wide bars" The downside is wider bars are less aerodynamic. But it's a pretty small difference, and getting a comfortable fit for you is more important.
The conventional rule of thumb, would suggest 42cm bars for you. (the width of your shoulders) but it's only a starting guideline. Also different bars are measured differently. 44mm outside to outside may not be much wider than 42cm center to center.
Also, what's considered normal changes over time. 30 years ago it wasn't uncommon for bikes to come with 38cm bars, whereas now 42cm seems more typical off the rack,
Which gets back to ride and try it out.
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You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
#4
Chances are OP your cockpit is still too cramped. I would say many rec riders seem to err on the close in side for their handlebar position...a throw back to riding a conventional gripped handlebar. Most would be both faster and more comfortable a bit more stretched out.
If you want better insight post a side picture with hands on the hoods. Many have done that here and virtually all are too cramped with poor pelvis rotation.
If you want better insight post a side picture with hands on the hoods. Many have done that here and virtually all are too cramped with poor pelvis rotation.
#5
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Hi there, thanks for all the great replies and information.
Reason why the LBS is rushing me is because there is a cyclist looking for the 100mm stem and since I had not used it yet, the LBS had offered me to swap the 100mm out of my bike to the other cyclist's bike. The other cyclist is my friend btw.
Anyway, attached below are the pictures of my current setup. Really appreciate your input and advice. Thanks!




Reason why the LBS is rushing me is because there is a cyclist looking for the 100mm stem and since I had not used it yet, the LBS had offered me to swap the 100mm out of my bike to the other cyclist's bike. The other cyclist is my friend btw.
Anyway, attached below are the pictures of my current setup. Really appreciate your input and advice. Thanks!




#6
stick with the stem length. imagine having a longer stem with a wider bar = not comfortable at all. the shorter stem will enable you to have more control THOUGH really, 10mm is too small of a change.
i personally should be riding a 38 (smallest) or 40 (normal) but I ride a 42. i'm a climber with compact bars and loves climbing on the drops.
i personally should be riding a 38 (smallest) or 40 (normal) but I ride a 42. i'm a climber with compact bars and loves climbing on the drops.
#7
Hi there, thanks for all the great replies and information.
Reason why the LBS is rushing me is because there is a cyclist looking for the 100mm stem and since I had not used it yet, the LBS had offered me to swap the 100mm out of my bike to the other cyclist's bike. The other cyclist is my friend btw.
Anyway, attached below are the pictures of my current setup. Really appreciate your input and advice. Thanks!





Reason why the LBS is rushing me is because there is a cyclist looking for the 100mm stem and since I had not used it yet, the LBS had offered me to swap the 100mm out of my bike to the other cyclist's bike. The other cyclist is my friend btw.
Anyway, attached below are the pictures of my current setup. Really appreciate your input and advice. Thanks!





HTH.
#8
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Joined: Jun 2013
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From: EU
Bikes: Ax Lighntess Vial EVO D (+ Paduano Fidia)
If i were you, i should look at my old bar. Is 44cm measured C-C (center to center) in the bars, or outside of the bars. Then i would change to a 42cm. If a bar is 44cm C-C it is probably 46cm externally measured. So a 42cm (C-C) is a 44cm externally, or it can be 42cm if measured externally. I rode a 44cm C-C, which was 46cm oursternally. Now i ride another bar with 1cm narrower reach and drops is 2cm less. This bar is a 44cm outside to outside. My shoulders are 44.5cm and this bar i have now (2013 FSA K-wing carbon compact) is really nice. I use Fizik gel inlays and tape.
I read somewhere some pro riders tried bars that was lesser than their actual width in shoulders. You are vice versa. Try a less wide bar.
It is not a bad idea actually trying out a few stems (this is a bit of cost, but it is worth it). I have from 90-130, with 10mm increments on all stems.
Looks like a real race fit you have there.
I read somewhere some pro riders tried bars that was lesser than their actual width in shoulders. You are vice versa. Try a less wide bar.
It is not a bad idea actually trying out a few stems (this is a bit of cost, but it is worth it). I have from 90-130, with 10mm increments on all stems.
Looks like a real race fit you have there.
#9
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Thanks again for the advice.
Tested it for a 50km ride. The shifter is set too low, felt pain on the area between my index finger and thumb, so I rotated the handlebar upward slightly, about 5mm. Will try it out again later.
As for the width, I can feel less aero as I kind of expand my chest now but when I stand to pedal, the bike felt very comfortable when I pull from the hoods, left and right.
For cornering or steering, it feels more responsive now, kinda twitchy. This being the shorter stem and wider bar.
The stem length is kinda okay for now. Feel very, very comfortable when I am on the flat bar.
Is there anything else I should look into for this setup? And yes, I think I would like to try a 42cm CtoC bar now, kinda expensive to change so soon.
Tested it for a 50km ride. The shifter is set too low, felt pain on the area between my index finger and thumb, so I rotated the handlebar upward slightly, about 5mm. Will try it out again later.
As for the width, I can feel less aero as I kind of expand my chest now but when I stand to pedal, the bike felt very comfortable when I pull from the hoods, left and right.
For cornering or steering, it feels more responsive now, kinda twitchy. This being the shorter stem and wider bar.
The stem length is kinda okay for now. Feel very, very comfortable when I am on the flat bar.
Is there anything else I should look into for this setup? And yes, I think I would like to try a 42cm CtoC bar now, kinda expensive to change so soon.
#10
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From: Missouri
Bikes: '12 CAAD10 3, '88 Raleigh Talon
I switched off of 42cm c-c handlebars (which would be my size following the sizing rules) because I would get a tight/tense spot in my upper back. Twice the mileage on 40cm c-c handlebars and I have avoided that discomfort and feel more comfortable overall on the bike.
Point being, the rules are more like guidelines. The only way to understand how something fits or feels is to ride it for a bit.
Point being, the rules are more like guidelines. The only way to understand how something fits or feels is to ride it for a bit.
#12
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The rides that I do are mostly for fitness. So I am right in the middle of a racing and casual set up.
Anyway, I made the jump and I swapped in a 120mm (-10 degree).....
Reason I did this is because on last Wednesday I tested it out with the 100mm and find it very comfortable but doesn't really affect the cycling duration and very little or no pain at all on any body parts. Distance was about 40km. Stem was a PRO PLT with -10 degree.
Then I rode again on Thursday with a 110mm stem and rotated the handlebar upward a little. Not the same though as I feel I am stretched out a bit and I feel a bit of soreness on the area between index finger and thumb. Distance was about 60km. Stem was a Deda Zero 100 with -8 degree.
Finally I rode again on Sunday morning, doing a 40km, 1,700m inclination sufferfest. Was a great area to test out the 120mm stem I swapped in. Going uphill was fine as I was on the flat bar most of the time. On certain stretch of the road which is flat, I held the hoods and find it "OKAY" as I again, rotated the handlebar upward again, by around 2-3mm.
Then comes the downhill. I hang on to the dropbar for the whole ride and it feels "OKAY" too.
The only part that I felt pain now is the back of my neck when I go downhill, holding the drops, trying to look ahead as much as possible. Also felt numb on my left hand but I suppose this is due to my amateurish habit of not changing my hand position (going uphill, holding on flat bar 90% of the time).
So then is it advisable to change my handle bar to 42cm? The stem is it ok now or do I need to go for longer rides, >100km to truly test it out?



Anyway, I made the jump and I swapped in a 120mm (-10 degree).....
Reason I did this is because on last Wednesday I tested it out with the 100mm and find it very comfortable but doesn't really affect the cycling duration and very little or no pain at all on any body parts. Distance was about 40km. Stem was a PRO PLT with -10 degree.
Then I rode again on Thursday with a 110mm stem and rotated the handlebar upward a little. Not the same though as I feel I am stretched out a bit and I feel a bit of soreness on the area between index finger and thumb. Distance was about 60km. Stem was a Deda Zero 100 with -8 degree.
Finally I rode again on Sunday morning, doing a 40km, 1,700m inclination sufferfest. Was a great area to test out the 120mm stem I swapped in. Going uphill was fine as I was on the flat bar most of the time. On certain stretch of the road which is flat, I held the hoods and find it "OKAY" as I again, rotated the handlebar upward again, by around 2-3mm.
Then comes the downhill. I hang on to the dropbar for the whole ride and it feels "OKAY" too.
The only part that I felt pain now is the back of my neck when I go downhill, holding the drops, trying to look ahead as much as possible. Also felt numb on my left hand but I suppose this is due to my amateurish habit of not changing my hand position (going uphill, holding on flat bar 90% of the time).
So then is it advisable to change my handle bar to 42cm? The stem is it ok now or do I need to go for longer rides, >100km to truly test it out?



#13
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Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Vermont
Bikes: Pinarello Montello, Merckx MX Leader, Merckx Corsa Extra, Pinarello Prologo, Tredici Magia Nera, Tredici Cross
Just as a side note...I like to have my bars tipped up just a smidge. Having the bar ends facing slightly down gives me a bit more leverage in a sprint situation. As stated above, everyone is different. Classic Bend bars really seem to work best for me, personally. Ergos seem to have 1 spot or nothing. I like to move a round a bit, depending on "why" I am in the drops.
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