gilzmo

Hi! I want to convert my 1996 Gary Fisher Big Sur MTB into more of a comfort cruiser to knock around the neighborhood for under $100. The biggest comfort factor is changing to higher laid-back handlebars. I thought I could just order a pair off Amazon for $20, unscrew and rescrew a few screws, maybe get it recabled, and viola! Now I, with zero mechanical/bike knowledge or ability, find that it's much more complicated than that. The bike shop guy says new risers, stems, recableing is $150. I can buy a new cruddy Walmart comfort bike for that! The big sticking point is it turns out new handlebars don't fit old mountain bikes. Can anyone tell me if there a handlebar out there that will fit or an easy/cheap way to put $20 Amazon "ape hangers" on a 20 year-old mountain bike. Superglue!? Thanks for any wisdom/loose change thrown my way.

mconlonx

Did you bring the bike into the shop and ask, or did you just call/email?

Curious, because...

I don't know why you'd need a riser if you're thinking of going apehanger. From the pix I can see, the older Big Sur takes a standard mtn diameter bar, which is 25.4 at the stem clamp... usually the same diameter as cruiser bars like ape-hangers.

You will need to re-cable the bike, and depending on the height of the apehangers, you may even need tandem length cables, also inordinate amounts of housing.

All things considered, you still should be able to convert on your own for under $100.

One snag to be aware of is how much handle length you'll have -- you need to fit shifter and brake clamps, plus grips. Apehangers are usually short at the handle as manufacturers assume no one is going to attach such stuff to them, and merely use them on a 1sp coaster brake bike. Measure on your existing setup from the grip end to the clamp furthest in and see if that matches up with the grip length of the bars you are thinking of using.

bliksem

Does it have an old quill stem - something that looks like a no 7? Usually there is an allen key that you loosen and you can pull the stem out of the fork. If so then get something like this Nashbar ATB Comfort Quill Stem or this Nashbar Stem Adaptor and this Nashbar Mountain Bike Stem plus your new favorite bars.
You need to make sure all the parts match in size (diameters) - this is the confusing part.

Bill Kapaun

I went to a 4" riser on my "grocery getter" and have to be careful about pulling back too hard, else it rotates in the clamp, which I've torqued down to the point I fear snapping the bolt.
You really may not want "ape hangers".

rmfnla

Leverage is not always a good thing...

gilzmo

Thanks for the replies! As for the "Ape hangers," I didn't actually use that term when I went to the bike shop yesterday mainly because I didn't know it was a thing. I used it here just trying to show off how bike savvy I've become overnight. Ha. Turns out a bit misleading and I apologize. But after he explained that I needed to put in a new riser in the fork tube, and then add a shorter stem, all before even getting to the $20 handlebars, I asked about just using some really long handlebars instead? (ala the Ape Hangers). Or how about just turning that really long forward jutting stem around backwards and slapping shorter $20 handlebars on? He looked at me funny and refused to think "outside the box" but steadfastly remained "outside my budget." But seriously, I was ignorant and he was giving me good advice. But keeping this cheap is vital or I might as well go to Wal-Mart. I thought those risers and stems must be jacking up the cost (it is the old quill stem, I learned) but looking at the links Bliksem supplied they look inexpensive so maybe I'll go that route, and Mr. Kapaum is right, I wouldn't need ape hangers. The issue of fitting the brakes and shifters is great point, too, Mr. Colonx. I really appreciate the tips.

Retro Grouch 

Super glue isn't going to cut it. You need a handlebar and stem that have matching interfaces.

The easiest way is to measure the diameter where it clamps into the stem, of the handlebar that you have now. Then acquire a handlebar that's the same size. Handlebars are measured in millimeters so do this:
1. Wrap a piece of paper around your handlebar. Mark where the paper overlaps.
2. Measure that distance as accurately as you can in millimeters.
3. Divide by 3.14.
That's the size handlebar that you need.

Secondly, the bike shop guys weren't BS-ing you about the recabeling. You'll need all new cables and all new cable housings. Then you essentially need a full bike tune up to adjust your new control cables.

gilzmo

Great tip! Eyeballing it with a tape measure seemed pretty dicey even while I was doing it. That would work for the tube where a new riser / stem would go in too.

oldbobcat

I just estimated the job at $156, and that was for a $25 handlebar. Actually finding the handlebar isn't a problem. J&B Importers has lots of riser bars that will work with a 25.4 mm stem, which is what I suspect you have.

The big-ticket items are labor ($75) and cable housing ($48). There's no way around the second one, but doing your own work is a big chunk. Of course, if you're considering Super Glue, you're probably better off paying a shop. Is there a bike repair co-op in your area?

Mcconlonx is right about having enough real estate at the ends to handle grips, brake levers, and shifters. I've been there, trying to fit all that onto some cruiser bars that somebody ordered. Measure carefully.

Andrew R Stewart 

+1! Andy.

LesterOfPuppets

That housing quote is INSANE! Only need to replace housing from levers to first cable stops.

Couple of these
XLC Brake Cable and Housing > Components > Drivetrain, Brakes and Pedals > Brake Cable and Housing | Jenson USA

And one of these
Shimano MTB Stainless Shift Cable Set > Components > Drivetrain, Brakes and Pedals > Shifter Cable and Housing | Jenson USA

If you shop around you can go cheaper on the shifter housing. A lot of times just using brake housing works fine for 7 or 8 speed stuff.

gilzmo

Thanks guys! Every little bit helps.

AnkleWork

Why pay to ruin a decent bike? Maybe just sell it whole and buy a BSO with long bars. You'll be way ahead. Turn the stem backwards indeed!

gilzmo

Thanks AW. Love your passion. I had to look up BSO--perfect description. "Why pay to ruin a decent bike?" Well, that's the dilemma right there. I was considering a BSO but those go for $150, and I don't know what my bike is worth but I figured $50 (Make me a big offer! Save this Sur!!!). So why pay $100 for a heavy constantly-needs-work BSO when I could spend that and have a quality base bike that just looks stupid--like me. I've priced a fat soft seat, barefoot pedals and high-rise bars--$50 so far--so I got to do the cabling thing for under $50 or the budget/logic? is blown. It all seems like going around your rear to get to your elbow, but there it is.

AnkleWork

Direct, linear logic: If your bike is in any reasonable condition it is worth much more than $50. If it truly is worth only $50 then it is in bad enough condition that it is not worth you spending anything to convert it to a cruiser. Also, you will likely spend more than $100 to convert it.

You can get a suitable, near new BSO "comfort cruiser" for much less than $100 and be many dollars and miles ahead. It will serve you better than a converted mountain bike and you will spend much more time riding.

oldbobcat

I'm sure you can do better buying cable and housing online. I'm sure you can find cable and housing at bike shops for less. I was just backing up the point that $150 for this kind of swap done by a shop is not unreasonable. And the necessity for lots of cable housing when you raise a bar significantly.

gilzmo

I never doubted that the bike shop guy was being straight up and reasonably pricing things I actually needed, Bobcat. I was just kind of joking about it, but I was shocked at how much it all added up to as it threw a wrench in my pricing plan. I really appreciate you pricing out that job as it gives me confidence that my area shop is reasonably priced, and it showed me I would have to do the cables myself to make this work financially. It sure will be exciting the first time I'm screaming down a hill and hit those ... those...where. are. my. braaaaakeees!?!!?!

Taking AW's advice, I looked up how much my bike is worth. As I said, figuring a nearly 20-year-old MTB would seem like a lead anchor against today's hi-tech stuff it wouldn't be worth much, even though it's all original, was never ridden hard and hardly at all for the last 18 years. So I found a site called Bicycle Blue Book and it said good to excellent condition was $220-$240. But, come on, that can't be right. That's gotta be some kind of scam? Anybody know if their pricing is right? If so, maybe I will post it on Craigslist. I've never done it before, but I've never cabled a bike before either.

LesterOfPuppets

The Big Sur is a pretty sweet bike. It's definitely not a boat anchor. MTBs in the $850 range haven't gotten any lighter, really (often heavier in fact). Just more, better suspension travel in some cases. Disc brakes. Different wheel size. Two more cogs on the cassette.

$850 in 1996 is a little over $1200 today. That'll get you a 28 pound Jamis vs. your 26.4 lb Gary Fisher, for instance

JAMIS BICYCLES

The bike blue book is a little high for my area. Big Sur would probably have to be still in the box to get over $200 here. One in nice, lightly used condition could see $150 or so.

gilzmo

Thanks Lester! That was just what I needed to know, and interesting to boot. I'd never heard of Jamis Bicycles, but they sure look sweet. ... Much appreciated.