Chainring down shift
#2
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Chainring wear has little to do with downshift performance. The FD typically moves in via the return spring, so slow downshifting might be the result of cable friction, or poor FD adjustment. It might also be the result of your not easing up on the pedals to allow the shift.
Shifting requires the chain to lift over the tops of the teeth. High chain tension from pedal load, resists that by pulling the chain down onto each tooth as it engages. So the very first step in dealing with sluggish FD shifting is to check it at zero load. If it's still sluggish, then cables or adjustment.
Shifting requires the chain to lift over the tops of the teeth. High chain tension from pedal load, resists that by pulling the chain down onto each tooth as it engages. So the very first step in dealing with sluggish FD shifting is to check it at zero load. If it's still sluggish, then cables or adjustment.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 75
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From: Delaware
Bikes: A little bit of everything. Notably old stuff and rare stuff.
Worn chain rings, probably not. I would start by releasing the cable tension from the front derailleur and manually moving the derailler to make sure it doesn't have any binding. Next, grab onto the cable and pull it to create tension and then shift it to see if there is binding in the shifter. If there's binding in the derailleur, you can take it off and soak it in something like wd-40. If there's binding in the shifter, you can do the same or you can spray a degreaser into it if it is an STI shifter. If there is no binding, I would check the position of the front derailleur and/or replace the cable and housing.
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 75
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From: Delaware
Bikes: A little bit of everything. Notably old stuff and rare stuff.





