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Old 08-24-25 | 06:36 AM
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I read that PressFit BB may have creaking noise. I don't know if it's a general issue or the creaking noise would come from faulty components or too much play.
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Old 08-24-25 | 06:37 AM
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Threaded - easier to service/replace, less likely to develop play in frame interface and get creaky.
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Old 08-24-25 | 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by bboy314
Threaded - easier to service/replace, less likely to develop play in frame interface and get creaky.
Sorry if the question might be dumb, but I am trying to take into consideration the bottom bracket too when I do a purchase of a MTB, but would the play in the frame and the creaking noise be caused by wear of the bottom bracket components or the wear of the frame, which in this case the wear of the frame will be a permanent damage to the bike, and not something that could be fixed by replacing the bottom bracket?
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Old 08-24-25 | 06:47 AM
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Threaded seem less likely to become obsolete as some frame mfrs. who currently use press fit are starting to switch back to threaded.
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Old 08-24-25 | 06:47 AM
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The fact that some of the OEMs that pioneered press fit have returned to threaded tells you all you need to know.
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Old 08-24-25 | 07:46 AM
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Since nobody said they would prefer the PressFit Bottom Bracket, I think the best choice would be Threaded Bottom Bracket. Thank you for your answers!

It is a bit disappointing that I found a bike that it seems that it has a very good quality/price ratio with good components and geometry at a lower price. I couldn't find any other bike this cheap and this good. This is the bike. It says in the specs that it has Shimano BB-MT500-PA bottom bracket which I read that it is a PressFit BB. Taking into consideration the price of the bike($1300), geometry and components, would you say that the PressFit BB that the bike come with is a deal breaker for you?

As a separate and general question, do MTBs that come with threaded BB are generally more expensive? If that's the case, what is the typical starting price point of a MTB that comes with a threaded BB?
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Old 08-24-25 | 08:10 AM
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In my world a MtB is a disposable bike and as such long term considerations are of less merit than with a road bike. Having said that every frame I build, regardless of the type, uses a threaded BB for the reasons others have already mentioned.

One of the real problems with using press fitted bearings in a bicycle is that of dimensional fit specs not being held very well. The bike making factories/brands don't seem to be able to maintain the tiny tolerance range that pressed in bearings want. Or at least on enough bikes they don't, so creaking BBs have become a frequent topic. Andy
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Old 08-24-25 | 08:10 AM
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My impression is that the main benefit of press-fit bottom brackets is simplified manufacturing, like straight-blade forks and sloping top tubes. Leave it to Marketing to figure out a way to present it as a performance benefit.
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Old 08-24-25 | 08:25 AM
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I've been riding and wrenching for 50+ years and I still have the dork discs on my mtb's. A time and place for almost anything AFAIC.
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Old 08-24-25 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
My impression is that the main benefit of press-fit bottom brackets is simplified manufacturing, like straight-blade forks and sloping top tubes. Leave it to Marketing to figure out a way to present it as a performance benefit.
I totally understand how a press fit bottom bracket might be easier to simply "press in" than another type, but you have stumped me on the straight-blade forks and the sloping top tubes. How are these easier to manufacture?

OP - Beware the creak! I had a bike (not mine) that I had to ride every day for a job. It creaked like an absolute banshee on every revolution every time I got out of the saddle, which was a lot. I never bother to check what type of bottom bracket it was because fixing it wasn't exactly my job or priority.
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Old 08-24-25 | 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by ScottCommutes
I totally understand how a press fit bottom bracket might be easier to simply "press in" than another type, but you have stumped me on the straight-blade forks and the sloping top tubes. How are these easier to manufacture?
Straight-blade forks don't require raking (the operation that puts the curve in the blade). Sloping top tubes allow fewer discrete frame sizes to accommodate a wide range of body heights. Not much savings individually, but if you're manufacturing thousands of frames, it adds up.
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Old 08-24-25 | 08:58 AM
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I'd prefer threaded, but the bottom bracket type wouldn't really influence my bike buying decision. I've had both types and have never had an issue with press fit bottom brackets.
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Old 08-24-25 | 09:47 AM
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One of the many reasons for the current press fit bbs is that they are lighter and considerably easier to get right with all cabon frames. Trek used to have problems with metal bb shells getting loose in the frame, for instance.

Done well, press fit used to be superior. But it isnt done well anymore.
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Old 08-24-25 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
Straight-blade forks don't require raking (the operation that puts the curve in the blade). Sloping top tubes allow fewer discrete frame sizes to accommodate a wide range of body heights. Not much savings individually, but if you're manufacturing thousands of frames, it adds up.
Agree about press-fit being solely for convenience and savings. Same as straight-sided carbon rims for tubeless.

Agnostic about straight forks. I've never been able to detect any difference in the ride between my bikes with straight forks and those with raked forks. It's possible that savings was behind the introduction of straight forks, but (IIRC) Colnago was the pioneer, so I guess it's also possible that the motivations was to provide some sort of performance advantage. Italian racers weren't put off by them.

(The first one I ever saw was on a bike a friend bought from Dutch pro Erik Breukink. I was agast at the sight of a pro-level racing bike with a straight fork, but I eventually got over it.)

Disagree about sloping top tubes. Just checked the first current popular road bike that came to mind, the low-mid-level Specialized Allez Comp, and it comes in seven sizes, mostly in 2-cm increments, same as in the days of level top tubes.

Advantages of sloping: greater stand-over room and/or (potentially) higher handlebars (bot are especially great for aging road riders), slightly reduced frame weight.

Advantage of horizontal: more aesthetically pleasing to those of us who imprinted on traditional geometry.

That said, despite having owned maybe 20 steel road bikes since 1963, I've gotten accustomed to sloping top tubes and large-diameter tubing, to the point where skinny tubes look a little ramshackle to me. But then, I never minded the look of unicrown forks.
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Old 08-24-25 | 10:52 AM
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I have only 1 bike, Orbea Avant, with press fit, I have never had an issue with creaking. I did replace the original FSA bb and crank set to Shimano hollowtech ll. It was not hard to do, but I prefer threaded.
The FSA bb failed after maybe 1500 miles.
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Old 08-24-25 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by CyclingMTB
It is a bit disappointing that I found a bike that it seems that it has a very good quality/price ratio with good components and geometry at a lower price. I couldn't find any other bike this cheap and this good. This is the bike. It says in the specs that it has Shimano BB-MT500-PA bottom bracket which I read that it is a PressFit BB. Taking into consideration the price of the bike($1300), geometry and components, would you say that the PressFit BB that the bike come with is a deal breaker for you?
For me if everything else about the bike is what you want and not available with a threaded BB I would buy that bike. There may or may not be some issues with the press fit but most can be fixed in various ways without spending big $$. The same Shimano BB that comes with this bike sells for around $20 if it happens to wear faster than some so no big deal.

Last edited by Crankycrank; 08-24-25 at 12:25 PM.
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Old 08-24-25 | 12:29 PM
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That plastic thingy.

Originally Posted by 12strings
My wife's bike's plastic spoke protector is making a lot of noise... is there an easy way to just break it off without removing the cassette?

can I just grab it with pliers and start breaking?
I don't like those plastic spoke protectors. I've taken them off the first chance I got, on any bike that I've owned. Seems like the only come on inexpensive bikes.
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Old 08-26-25 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Folksinger2964
I don't like those plastic spoke protectors. I've taken them off the first chance I got, on any bike that I've owned. Seems like the only come on inexpensive bikes.
Finally! Back to "spoke protectors" after some of the most spectacular hijacks I've ever seen on this site!
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Old 08-26-25 | 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by davidad
Drill a couple of holes in the spoke protecton and wire it in place. One bad shift and 1/4th of the spokes will need replacing.
Right. There are other events that can throw a chain off into the spokes, regardless of the inner limit screw adjustment, and finding a suitable replacement spoke protector for one that's loose can be a bit of a challenge.
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Old 08-26-25 | 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
Straight-blade forks don't require raking (the operation that puts the curve in the blade). Sloping top tubes allow fewer discrete frame sizes to accommodate a wide range of body heights. Not much savings individually, but if you're manufacturing thousands of frames, it adds up.
wow... i would think, of all the people here, YOU would actually Know what "Fork Rake" Really Means... wow.
the "curve" is a way to alter the OFFSET, and the TRAIL spec., as is the angle imparted at the crown, with "straight blade" forks.
and bike folks tend to mix up OFFSET with RAKE., for who knows what silly reason....

smh.
be a trend setter.. call head tube angle "Rake" and "OFFSET" OFFSET.

Last edited by maddog34; 08-26-25 at 03:57 PM.
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Old 08-26-25 | 03:57 PM
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I know my kids, I'm not taking their spoke protectors off. But the eldest was barely1yo when this thread started

None of our bikes are expensive enough to participate in the thread hijack
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Old 08-26-25 | 05:07 PM
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Gone ! And it will never be reinstalled.

Originally Posted by Darth Lefty
I know my kids, I'm not taking their spoke protectors off. But the eldest was barely1yo when this thread started

None of our bikes are expensive enough to participate in the thread hijack
Gone ! And it will never be reinstalled.
Gone ! And it will never be reinstalled!
Gone ! And it will never be reinstalled!
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Old 08-26-25 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by CyclingMTB
Greetings everyone! Which one is better for MTB? PressFit or Threaded BB? Also, would you please tell me why would you choose one over the other? Or it is not a question of which one is better, but both have advantages and disadvantages and the choice must be tailored to the rider's needs or budget? Thank you!
I thought we were talking about dork disks.
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Old 08-26-25 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by maddog34
wow... i would think, of all the people here, YOU would actually Know what "Fork Rake" Really Means... wow.
the "curve" is a way to alter the OFFSET, and the TRAIL spec., as is the angle imparted at the crown, with "straight blade" forks.
and bike folks tend to mix up OFFSET with RAKE., for who knows what silly reason....

smh.
be a trend setter.. call head tube angle "Rake" and "OFFSET" OFFSET.
You misread JohnDThompson's post. He probably won't bother to answer, but:

"Raking" is the term used by framebuilders to refer to the shop operation whereby straight fork blades become curved.

John D.'s point: it's cheaper for manufacturers to achieve the desired offset with straight blades, omitting the raking step.

Pro tip: attempting to condescend to a poster who worked in the Waterloo Trek factory in the '80's and is intimately familiar with particulars of frame design is not a good look. Random caps notwithstanding.
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Old 08-26-25 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Trakhak
You misread JohnDThompson's post. He probably won't bother to answer, but:

"Raking" is the term used by framebuilders to refer to the shop operation whereby straight fork blades become curved.

John D.'s point: it's cheaper for manufacturers to achieve the desired offset with straight blades, omitting the raking step.

Pro tip: attempting to condescend to a poster who worked in the Waterloo Trek factory in the '80's and is intimately familiar with particulars of frame design is not a good look. Random caps notwithstanding.
the FACT that someone like John Misuses Common Terms created and used in other places , i find annoying... and his previous status doesn't affect that one bit.
i get tired of people sucking up to other people just because of their "Status".
the term "Rake" is being misused. Period.
wow.

i love my '82 trek, and will never sell it... but that doesn't excuse their former employee for warping standard terms to fit the status quo of a bunch of other definition ignoring word benders.

if John has a "point" then He should state it... The term Is Misused by bicycle people.
now go air up your "700c" tires.

as a Reminder... this thread is about Spoke Protectors, aka: Dork discs.
i put them on CX bikes, and there is nothing "dorky" about preventing a DNF.

Last edited by maddog34; 08-26-25 at 07:27 PM.
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