![]() |
Originally Posted by rmfnla
(Post 18342520)
I'm probably a bit older than you so before freehubs came out it was pretty common to service a freewheel, especially the pricier ones.
|
If you use the locking nut or QR to hold the tool in place there is a less chance of the tool ' s prongs and /or the freewheel 's slots getting damage .
|
My feelings about working on freewheels is the same as those of [MENTION=21724]cyccommute[/MENTION]. I also overhauled one or two and came to the same conclusion. Yes, I can do it, but there's no good reason to do it. There is a guy who does it as a hobby, and he refurbishes freewheels, too. More power to him. I wouldn't recommend anyone do it unless it's a fun hobby for them.
|
Originally Posted by cyccommute
(Post 18343115)
I doubt it. I'm not at all unfamiliar with freewheels and have had to remove a number of them destructively. All of them are either 2 or 4 pronged Suntours. The 4 prong version is even worse at shearing off the prongs of the freewheel than the 2 prong version although the 2 prong version is more likely to shear off the prongs of the tool.
|
Originally Posted by bikeman715
(Post 18343152)
If you use the locking nut or QR to hold the tool in place there is a less chance of the tool ' s prongs and /or the freewheel 's slots getting damage .
|
Originally Posted by rmfnla
(Post 18340719)
I'm pretty used to you arguing your points ad nauseum, but it's especially interesting when you argue against my experience.
I'm sharing what I have done, not my opinion... |
Originally Posted by jfowler85
(Post 18343471)
Yup. Doing for the sake of doing, even when it's clear things are being made up.
|
Originally Posted by cyccommute
(Post 18343115)
I'm not at all unfamiliar with freewheels and have had to remove a number of them destructively. All of them are either 2 or 4 pronged Suntours. The 4 prong version is even worse at shearing off the prongs of the freewheel than the 2 prong version although the 2 prong version is more likely to shear off the prongs of the tool.
|
Originally Posted by bikeman715
(Post 18343152)
If you use the locking nut or QR to hold the tool in place there is a less chance of the tool ' s prongs and /or the freewheel 's slots getting damage .
|
There was another recent thread on freehwheel removal.
http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...el-rescue.html The idea is that if you remove the outer couple of sprockets, then remove the axle, you have good access to the notches. I wouldn't have cut new notches, but rather just cut the old ones to be roughly even. Put the left bearings and axle back in. ALWAYS TIGHTEN THE AXLE DOWN TIGHT... QUITE TIGHT ONTO YOUR FREEWHEEL REMOVAL TOOL. You then loosen as it unscrews. I usually use a big wrench with the tool, but the tool in a vice may be a bit safer to give even tension on the tool. |
Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
(Post 18343551)
And the Regina-style notches are inferior to either of the SunTour designs. Bottom line is that pronged remover design is inferior to the splined design introduced by Zeus and later adopted by Regina, Atom, and eventually (in a different enough spec to require a separate remover), Shimano.
|
Originally Posted by rmfnla
(Post 18343508)
I take it you two know each other... ;)
|
Sometimes you can use the skewer and some washers to hold the removal tool tight to the freewheel. You have to of course loosen things as the freewheel starts to loosen. This one may be to far gone for that maybe.
|
Originally Posted by Nebo.MTB
(Post 18347725)
Sometimes you can use the skewer and some washers to hold the removal tool tight to the freewheel. You have to of course loosen things as the freewheel starts to loosen. This one may be to far gone for that maybe.
|
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:28 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.