Surprised I couldn't find this answered among all the other questions about how to get brake pads to stop squealing, how to improve braking performance, etc.

When are brake pads worn enough to need replacing?

I've got kool stop salmons on my tektro cr720's. Due to toe-in, they are worn a lot more in the front (of each pad) than the back. Are the chevron-shaped cutins wear indicators? I've worn past some of those.

Braking performance is still fine. Should I just keep going until the pad holder starts contacting the rim?

(I think mine are V type 2 because they have multiple grooves, and are refillable with a retainer pin)

Ha! you ask a Naive seeming question, You Know Better ..

how about yesterday ?, have you done it already but just wanted to watch the posters line up ..

I have to wonder how much toe-in you have on the pads, if they're wearing that unevenly.

Maybe too much I guess? I use a rubber band or a zip-tie in the back of the pad to set toe-in.

?? I don't know what is the standard for judging brake pad wear, or I wouldn't have asked. What did I do already yesterday?

Many brake pads have a "wear line" with the words "wear line" written on them. When any part of the brake pad gets to that line, it's time to replace them.

Thx, I've never seen (or at least noticed) 'wear line' on my pads, but in your pic that line is coincident with the bottom of the cutout grooves, I guess likely it's the same deal for koolstop.

Time to order some refills -- or new pads?

Anybody got any experience/preference between refillable V types vs Thinlines?

I would think its obvious that you dont want a Metal to metal gouging of your Rims.

Thin lines are an adaptation to having limited space If that is not your problem Kool Stop offers

Kool Stop International - High Performance Bicycle Brake Pads Since 1977 a molded internal Spine
( I use the Plain Post type for my Mafac cantilevers)

For My Cross Bike, I have a shorter pad type (Made so that the tail of the front pad
does not extend back between the fork blades)

one place Thinlines would fit well,[ but the tire still has to come out Deflated.. ]

Replaceable insert , looks like 3 offered in V brake long surface pad ..

Kool Stop International - High Performance Bicycle Brake Pads Since 1977 ; thicker pad insert : Kool Stop International - High Performance Bicycle Brake Pads Since 1977

Individual blocks can be swapped out of the 3 per shoe .. Kool Stop International - High Performance Bicycle Brake Pads Since 1977


I have the 2 thickness types of insert pads in The shorter Cross shoes , Dura and Dura 2

The lever left the same you can tell the thicker from the thin with a lever travel arc greater with the thinner pad insert ..

If you will wait long to replace the pads I'd get the Thicker V brake type 2..


the black ones shown in 6th post, are bought in Bulk at the LBS for repairs ..

they're cheaper than the KS pad insert you buy after wearing down the first one that came with the Holder

I tend the change pads when I run out of barrel adjuster travel. I don't like clamping the wire multiple times, which tends to break strands and weaken it, to take up the slack. It may be wasteful of pads, but I consider my brakes a pretty important system on my bike and I don't mind tossing pads with life left on them. Also cantilever brakes tend to move lower down on the rim as they wear and loosening them on the arm, moving them up and getting them lined back up the way they are worn is annoying. Easier to replace them IME.

I'll go pretty close to that wear line as mentioned above. Or for cartridge type pads, up to close to where the cartridge would rub.

For those molded pads, any beyond the wear line, and one risks hitting the support frame for the pad.

Often I'm quite a bit below where the pattern is on the pads.

I've always read that when the grooves in the pads are worn to their bottoms, the pads should be replaced. I really don't want the pad holders to contact the rims.

+1, that's my approach as well.

I replaced my pads with Kool Stop salmon V-type refills, this is what my old pads looked like. With 3/4 pads having at least one internal groove completely gone, I guess it was definitely time!

Also, according to the instructions on the back of the packaging, I installed with NO toe-in; I guess the plow-tip which lifts the rear/leading edge provides the proper toe-in, because they work great, no squealing at all, plenty of stopping power.

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Dang. I wanted to answer your original question of "when to replace brake pads" with, "when they are not kool stop salmon pads" but you ruined that for me.