Concerned about my front fork' reliability
#1
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Concerned about my front fork' reliability
Hi everyone!
I bought a used Eddy Merckx steel frame a few months ago and noticed once home that the previous owner had tried to remove a frozen stem by forcing with a pipe... The result is a dented fork, right under the front tube... I've had no problem riding the bike, but I begin to feel unsure about its reliability.. is it safe to ride?
I must add that I'm not heavy nor especially powerful...
What do you guys think?
Thanks for your help!



I bought a used Eddy Merckx steel frame a few months ago and noticed once home that the previous owner had tried to remove a frozen stem by forcing with a pipe... The result is a dented fork, right under the front tube... I've had no problem riding the bike, but I begin to feel unsure about its reliability.. is it safe to ride?
I must add that I'm not heavy nor especially powerful...
What do you guys think?
Thanks for your help!
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Steel forks are quite tolerant of minor dents. Those don't look too bad as the metal isn't creased and the brazed leg-to-crown joints aren't damaged so it should be safe, if not pretty. Apparently the alignment wasn't changed appreciably if the bike tracks properly.
That said, if you are looking for an excuse to upgrade to a new carbon fork, there it is.
That said, if you are looking for an excuse to upgrade to a new carbon fork, there it is.
#6
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Nothing is absolutely safe, but both this dented steel fork and any new CF fork from a reputable maker are about as safe as it's going to get. CF forks aren't more or less likely to break than steel forks, but in a front end collision they'll either hold up fine or snap, whereas a steel fork might bend. Either way, the injuries you duffer will be from the collision, and not the fork failure.
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FB
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#7
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Would you say neither this nor a CF fork would break because of bumps on the road or, say, wear or vibration from speed or something unexpected of the kind?
Of course a frontal crash would do me no good, I second that
Of course a frontal crash would do me no good, I second that
#8
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From: Portland, OR
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
If it were mine? (As an owner of around a dozen steel road bikes over the years.) I'd ride it and keep an eye on the fork. I would also keep an eye and ear open for a new or good fork that would be a good fit for the bike and a person or company who can do a good paint job within your budget.
Best part of steel - all but the very highest end. highest strength steels give you warning almost always before failing. And where that dent is, well away from the fork crown, it is HIGHLY UNLIKELY that the fork will fail there without plenty of warning. Plus it is in a very visible spot. Ride it, but keep an eye on it.
To save money, you might consider chroming whatever fork you find. but consult a reputable frame builder for advice on the best outfit to go to. (I had a nickle plated fork done by an outfit that took the shortcut of not doing a post plate heat treat. Both blades nearly broke at the crown and could well have on a steep descent as I braked hard for a sharp turn. Didn't because I had a mechanical at the top of the mountain and nursed the bike down to the flats - completely unaware I had a fork that was about to break catastrophically. Bike started shuddering violently after I got down to the flat. Got home and pulled one blade off with one hand, easily. The other was cracked halfway through. That mechanical - good bike, a keeper! it was looking after me!)
All that said, forks have been chromed for the past 100 years. Many have served long lives, long before good pavement existed. Done right, all's good.
Ben
Best part of steel - all but the very highest end. highest strength steels give you warning almost always before failing. And where that dent is, well away from the fork crown, it is HIGHLY UNLIKELY that the fork will fail there without plenty of warning. Plus it is in a very visible spot. Ride it, but keep an eye on it.
To save money, you might consider chroming whatever fork you find. but consult a reputable frame builder for advice on the best outfit to go to. (I had a nickle plated fork done by an outfit that took the shortcut of not doing a post plate heat treat. Both blades nearly broke at the crown and could well have on a steep descent as I braked hard for a sharp turn. Didn't because I had a mechanical at the top of the mountain and nursed the bike down to the flats - completely unaware I had a fork that was about to break catastrophically. Bike started shuddering violently after I got down to the flat. Got home and pulled one blade off with one hand, easily. The other was cracked halfway through. That mechanical - good bike, a keeper! it was looking after me!)
All that said, forks have been chromed for the past 100 years. Many have served long lives, long before good pavement existed. Done right, all's good.
Ben
#9
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
There are many misconceptions surrounding carbon as a bike frame material. Some from bias, some from believing marketing speak and some from the minimal data points most of us are limited to. That being said the early versions of carbon applications were less then stellar (as are some current knock offs).
Some of you know my history and that I'm a steel guy through and through (a filleted touring frame waits for my continuing filing later today) but I have to say that the carbon frames/forks I see from "real" brands are very well made. I've seen bikes come into the shop and on hearing of the incidents that the bikes went through I know steel would have deformed, bent and otherwise not have been rideable any longer. I have very little concerns about the safety or reliability of "brand name" carbon stuff. That I choose to not ride any (well, not completely correct. I do have a carbon fork on one bike that I don't ride much) isn't a reflection of any fear or concerns. Andy.
Some of you know my history and that I'm a steel guy through and through (a filleted touring frame waits for my continuing filing later today) but I have to say that the carbon frames/forks I see from "real" brands are very well made. I've seen bikes come into the shop and on hearing of the incidents that the bikes went through I know steel would have deformed, bent and otherwise not have been rideable any longer. I have very little concerns about the safety or reliability of "brand name" carbon stuff. That I choose to not ride any (well, not completely correct. I do have a carbon fork on one bike that I don't ride much) isn't a reflection of any fear or concerns. Andy.
#10
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Yes, neither this fork not a new CF fork is likely to fail under normal riding conditions, including some degree of rough service, ie. bad roads. In your shoes, I'd keep and ride the dented one because it's there, I only referenced CF forks to relieve you of undue concerns about them.
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Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#11
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Joined: May 2011
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From: Upstate NY
Bikes: Bianchi San Mateo and a few others
Your dented fork, on the other hand... It's probably safe to ride. FBinNY is about as trustworthy a source as there is, but there are some times when I'm personally inclined to err on the side of caution. A broken fork is among the worst possible failures on a bike. Lose your fork and you'll likely land on your face.
<EDIT> Also, since you mentioned aging of carbon fiber... UV exposure isn't always kind to the resins used to make carbon fiber components, but that's why carbon fiber components are finished with paint or UV-resistant coatings. I don't know if I'd ride a 100-year-old carbon fiber fork, but I'm confident the two carbon fiber forks I have on bikes will last a few more decades until I'm no longer able to ride. Well, unless I crash them, of course.
Last edited by SkyDog75; 01-03-16 at 01:18 PM.
#12
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Yes, neither this fork not a new CF fork is likely to fail under normal riding conditions, including some degree of rough service, ie. bad roads. In your shoes, I'd keep and ride the dented one because it's there, I only referenced CF forks to relieve you of undue concerns about them.
#13
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From: Sunny Tampa, Florida
It depends on the quality of the CF, but there's still plenty of high quality carbon from the mid 90s still out there and riding strong. Whether some Chinese crap made last week will last 20 years, I don't know. But the good stuff will have a long safe life.
#14
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Awh man... an original fork on a steel merckx.
Breaks the heart.
Quite honestly, I think you can keep that one. Yeah, it's a dent but it doesn't look like it's far in to make it a hazard. Notice that it's on the inside of the fork and not the front facing or back. I wouldn't think there's too much strain on the inside of the fork unless you are taking turns near parallel with the ground. If you weigh a fair amount of weight, change it though. Think of 225-250.
Carbon forks are totally fine to ride.
I would continue riding it if it was me just for my love of steel and merckx paint design. Your discretion.
Breaks the heart.
Quite honestly, I think you can keep that one. Yeah, it's a dent but it doesn't look like it's far in to make it a hazard. Notice that it's on the inside of the fork and not the front facing or back. I wouldn't think there's too much strain on the inside of the fork unless you are taking turns near parallel with the ground. If you weigh a fair amount of weight, change it though. Think of 225-250.
Carbon forks are totally fine to ride.
I would continue riding it if it was me just for my love of steel and merckx paint design. Your discretion.
#15
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From: Wild Wonderful West Virginia
Bikes: Gunnar Crosshairs, Surly Karate Monkey, Specialized Fuze, Bianchi Volpe, too many others and a lot of broken frame
I was in the Cannondale factory about 16 years ago and they broke two frames showing us what a front impact would do, one an impact above the axle like hitting a car and another below the axle like hitting a pothole at speed. Both frames had carbon Kensis forks on and the forks held up but each frame bent really bad in different areas. This made me feel better about carbon but I do ride steel frame and fork, Gunnar. There is no way that I would ride a Chinese knock off though. Remember if it says made in China and not a manufacturer name on it you are asking for trouble. You cannot sue China.
#16
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Bondo!
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Genesis 49:16-17
"Well, well!" said Holmes, impatiently. "A good cyclist does not need a high road. The moor is intersected with paths and the moon is at the full."
Genesis 49:16-17
"Well, well!" said Holmes, impatiently. "A good cyclist does not need a high road. The moor is intersected with paths and the moon is at the full."
#17
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#18
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I'm sure it will give you lots of warning. That's the supposed virtue, right?
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Genesis 49:16-17
"Well, well!" said Holmes, impatiently. "A good cyclist does not need a high road. The moor is intersected with paths and the moon is at the full."
Genesis 49:16-17
"Well, well!" said Holmes, impatiently. "A good cyclist does not need a high road. The moor is intersected with paths and the moon is at the full."
#19
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
So if they are easily damaged and don't age well, you can't prove it by me. Frankly, you have been misinformed.
#21
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I have two bike with Easton EC90SLX forks, Easton's lightest carbon fork and most likely their least durable. Both are about 10 years old and one has 36,000+ miles and the other 33,000+ miles, all on mediocre, pothole infested roads. Recent inspections (I had to replace the headset on one bike) showed no defects or problems whatsoever.
So if they are easily damaged and don't age well, you can't prove it by me. Frankly, you have been misinformed.
So if they are easily damaged and don't age well, you can't prove it by me. Frankly, you have been misinformed.
#23
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
#25
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Ok thanks to all of you for your answers. I decided to keep riding the bike as is, while keeping an eye on 2nd hand Merckx forks... Well I've just found one, but it seems too big for my frame... I've been looking for information and read that too long a fork was not an issue since one can saw it down to the desired length, but in this case..:
On my bike, the steerer tube of the fork, i.e. the distance between the top of the "T" and the top of the threading is 160 mmm; c/c distance between headsets is 140mm (bike is a 54); the seller says the new forks is 210mm long... The threading might begin well above the top headset, making it impossible to tighten..
Is that possible? Enclosed a picture of the new fork
Thanks in advance for your comments
On my bike, the steerer tube of the fork, i.e. the distance between the top of the "T" and the top of the threading is 160 mmm; c/c distance between headsets is 140mm (bike is a 54); the seller says the new forks is 210mm long... The threading might begin well above the top headset, making it impossible to tighten..
Is that possible? Enclosed a picture of the new fork
Thanks in advance for your comments
Last edited by duke01; 01-05-16 at 07:09 AM.



