Can someone tell me what tool I would need to remove an old single speed freewheel like this one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-NOS-...3D181884738241

Also, anyone know if the above freewheel is any good?

I have no experience with this item, but there are two notches visible on the inner ring. You would need to turn that ring counter-clockwise to remove the freewheel. Rather than a special tool, I think you would just tap against the notches with a screwdriver or flat punch and a hammer. (In a recent thread, someone succeeded with that method.) The two dimples on the central ring are for disassembly of the FW rather than removal.

Incidentally, I own a German-made air rifle made by Dianawerke. Eine ausgezeichnete Waffe.

A common tool called a "pin wrench" is used to remove/replace that type of threaded ring, they are used in many applications and can be found in
auto parts stores, maybe harbor freight, that kind of place. They have a swing jaw usually that will span a number of sizes.

Ebay has them, all types, $5 on up, just checked

As tight as freewheels can be, I don't know that I'd use a pin wrench to try to remove one...unless it's a really durable pin wrench. To get them off you usually have to clamp the freewheel removal tool in a vise. Generally you'd need a 2-pronged freewheel removal tool...but with prongs that fit into the notches on the freewheel (similar) to the one on the right/foreground in my pic below. Once, I encountered a freewheel with odd sized notches that I didn't have a tool for. In that case I ended up fashioning my own tool (the one on the left) by cutting off the end, and grinding down the prongs of an old ratchet. I've actually used that thing several times.




Dan

That particular make - no.
IMO there isn't much "space" to make one f/w much better than another. Either they work, or they don't.
Some riders do report preferences based on points-of-engagement, or resistance to contamination, or even pawls breaking. But for most riders they're a fit & forget kind of thing.

But that's for opening/disassembling the f/w, not removing it.
Can be done as a first stage to destructive removal of a f/w though.
Servicing f/w's via disassembly is a quite rare event.

The closest remover type to that I know about is the old Sun Tour 2-prong but I can't tell if the diameter and notch width are a match. Take it to an older bike shop and have them try-fit one. As mentioned above, those pinholes are to remove the outer ring for disassembly, not removal of the entire freewheel.

Destructive removal can be done by using the pinholes to unthread that ring (it may be left-hand threaded), pulling the cog and outer body and bearings off the stationary core and using a pipe wrench on the core to unthread it. All of that is followed by buying a new freewheel.

I see 2 tiny-itty-bitty notches, barely enough to grab. Good luck

I've got the Suntour removal tool, and the lugs are much larger than the square notches on this FW's inner ring.

A pinwrench could fit those notches, as well as the dimples in the cover disc. However, as I reported earlier, another poster successfully and non-destructively removed a similar single-speed FW by tapping on the notches in a counter-clockwise direction with a punch and hammer. No special tool needed, apparently.

OP, the most likely scenario requiring removal of this item would be failure of the internal mechanism. That happened to me on a multi-cog FW. Otherwise, installing it is best done with a chain-whip, or just install finger-tight and go for a ride.

Id say forget re using it, notches too small to take sufficient force , but you could try

a hardened steel Cold Chisel (rather than a screwdriver) and a Hammer , no need to be gentle ..

Or, use a center punch drive the round pin face-race off to let the balls fall out

then put the core in a bench vise and unscrew the wheel from it

get a replacement freewheel with the shimano type large 4 point tool interface

Shimano also has a tool that might fit but you need to find out if the diameter is the same. Shimano TL FW40 Single Speed Freewheel Remover Y1200904T | eBay Another possibility is a BMX tool. Cycle Freewheel Remover BMX Single speed cog removal tool - Tobe | eBay You could also grind down the notches of the Suntour tool, or as mentioned, make your own. IMO unless you plan on keeping this freewheel or buying another Diana brand I would just take it to a shop since you may never need the tool again and cheaper than buying one.

Yeah, the notches looked too small for the Sun Tour but it was the only similar remover I know about. Hammer and punch time most likely.

One other reason for removal, other than mechanical failure, is if the OP wants to change the gearing.

Found a couple on line that may work for that freewheel.

CyclePro BMX Freewheel Remover | Bikewagon

and

https://jet.com/product/detail/3cc62...tokaAs7N8P8HAQ

Dan

I have a single speed freewhel where the ring to take the freewheel apart faces the hub and the 4 notches for the remover are on the opposite side and face away from the hub. I wonder if the backside of the freewheel in the OP is the same sort of construction? Too bad there isn't a view of the backside of the OP freewheel.

Cheers

I don't think he's referring to the pin holes in the lockring, but the Regina-like notches in the body:



They look smaller than Regina's, but perhaps a Regina or other 2-prong remover tool could be ground down to fit. The notches look too delicate to withstand the hammer & punch approach, IMO.

I wouldn't put this freewheel onto a hub until you've found a means to get it off again, otherwise destructive removal might be your only option.

In the Shop, I built up an Upright Trike, the Chinese freewheel included had No Removal notches at all

so I Guess You remove the Keyway and the piece That the F/W is screwed onto when that one dies..

So It could get Worse..

Thanks all for the replies. The reason why I ask is because I ordered a new production Sturmey Archer freewheel for a vintage single speed hub. The freewheel body is considerably thick, around 18mm or so, and protrudes well beyond the RH cone. I suppose one solution might be to add several cone locknuts to increase the OLD and give clearance that way. But I was thinking maybe I'd be better off with a vintage freewheel with a thinner body. Here are some pics of the Sturmey Archer freewheel screwed on to the vintage hub (missing cone locknuts, didn't come with any).

Nice thing about the SA hub is that it comes in 22 tooth (vintage freewheels seem to only come in 20 tooth as the largest size) and I have a removal tool that works quite well (4 prong). It's also brand new.

Sun Race-Sturmey Archer uses the Shimano Spec single speed free wheel removal Tool it appears..