Adjustment of disc brake calipers
#1
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Adjustment of disc brake calipers
I need to align my brake calipers. The problem is that the brake disc is too much shifted to one side, i.e. it is much closer to one brake pad than the other. When engaging the brake it bends the whole brake disc.
This is what I want it to look like:

This is what it looks like now:

This is my brake caliper. Note the two adjustment screws and the third larger one in the middle and slightly below.

What are these screws for? Are they related to what I want to do?
I've tried reading up on this and watching a few videos, but the ones I've watched don't go into how to re-align a brake disc which is shifted too much to one side.
This is what I want it to look like:

This is what it looks like now:

This is my brake caliper. Note the two adjustment screws and the third larger one in the middle and slightly below.

What are these screws for? Are they related to what I want to do?
I've tried reading up on this and watching a few videos, but the ones I've watched don't go into how to re-align a brake disc which is shifted too much to one side.
#2
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Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Sherwood, OR
You don't realign the rotor (unless it is bent), you adjust the caliper. For gross misalignment, you will need to loosen the mounting bolts between the caliper and frame and center the caliper over the rotor.
For finer adjustment, the adjustment screws on each side of the caliper should bet you where you need to be. It is most common for a single pad to move when the lever is pulled and the rotor bends to meet the opposite caliper.
For finer adjustment, the adjustment screws on each side of the caliper should bet you where you need to be. It is most common for a single pad to move when the lever is pulled and the rotor bends to meet the opposite caliper.
#3
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[Slow typist says:] Tried the basic Grab the brake Lever , loosen the mounting bolts (other than those you see, they just hold the adapter on )
It's The Post Mount bolts On the caliper, Above and Below it .
then re tighten them still holding the brake lever ..
Other than that You use the Pad wear adjustments on the Back. other side .
I expect there is a barrel adjuster for the Outside Pad wear adjustment
If not. loosen the cable bolt , move the actuating Lever to get the pad to rim clratance then tighten it again
6 bolts disc to the hub tight? It wont move Much although,
the Inside pad wear adjuster may be to far out (of adjustment )
and so the moving pad has pushed the disc More than Necessary ..
The Brake Pad Wear Adjuster is You. it is something you have to Do.
It's The Post Mount bolts On the caliper, Above and Below it .
then re tighten them still holding the brake lever ..
Other than that You use the Pad wear adjustments on the Back. other side .
I expect there is a barrel adjuster for the Outside Pad wear adjustment
If not. loosen the cable bolt , move the actuating Lever to get the pad to rim clratance then tighten it again
6 bolts disc to the hub tight? It wont move Much although,
the Inside pad wear adjuster may be to far out (of adjustment )
and so the moving pad has pushed the disc More than Necessary ..
The Brake Pad Wear Adjuster is You. it is something you have to Do.
Last edited by fietsbob; 02-01-16 at 07:31 PM.
#4
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From: Metro Indy, IN
Bikes: Bacchetta Giro A20, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer
The outer pad does indeed bend the rotor over into contact with the inner pad. At least that's how it works on Avid BB-7 brakes.
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Bacchetta Giro A20, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer
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#5
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
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Just how they are designed.
all do except TRP Spyre/Spyke , they* have both pads move to the disc (*& hydraulics)
maybe you just let the inside pad get out of spec for adjustment.
all do except TRP Spyre/Spyke , they* have both pads move to the disc (*& hydraulics)
maybe you just let the inside pad get out of spec for adjustment.
Last edited by fietsbob; 02-05-16 at 04:08 PM.
#6
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
I don't see a problem. Is there pad rub on the rotor on either side/ is the rotor becoming warped from the slight bending during braking? If no to both questions there is no problem with the brake. But perhaps in the eye of the rider... Andy
#7
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From: SGV So Cal
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#8
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-Loosen the 2 bolts that hold the caliper body to the shallow U shaped adapter.
-Back the pad adjustment screws on either side all the way out (largest gap), then turn them in about 1/2 turn.
-Screw the cable adjuster(s) all the way in.
-Actuate the caliper lever (you don't have to use the handlebar lever, you can do it by hand at the caliper) to center the caliper on the rotor.
-While holding this clamp, tighten the bolts holding the caliper to the adapter. The caliper should now be clamped to the rotor and centered on it.
-Loosen the cable clamp to the lever, then again move the lever clamp to clamp the rotor. Try to pull the cable taught. Then tighten the cable clamp. The caliper should be again clamped to the rotor and centered, but with no or very little slack in the cable
-Back off the wear adjuster screws the smallest amount possible to allow the rotor to move without drag. I try to set mine to minimize bending of the rotor: the non-moving (inner) pad just barely clears the rotor so that the moving pad can't bend the rotor very far.
-This should give you a very small, firm feeling brake lever pull.
-You now have both the cable adjuster and the pad wear adjustment screws to take up wear.
-Back the pad adjustment screws on either side all the way out (largest gap), then turn them in about 1/2 turn.
-Screw the cable adjuster(s) all the way in.
-Actuate the caliper lever (you don't have to use the handlebar lever, you can do it by hand at the caliper) to center the caliper on the rotor.
-While holding this clamp, tighten the bolts holding the caliper to the adapter. The caliper should now be clamped to the rotor and centered on it.
-Loosen the cable clamp to the lever, then again move the lever clamp to clamp the rotor. Try to pull the cable taught. Then tighten the cable clamp. The caliper should be again clamped to the rotor and centered, but with no or very little slack in the cable
-Back off the wear adjuster screws the smallest amount possible to allow the rotor to move without drag. I try to set mine to minimize bending of the rotor: the non-moving (inner) pad just barely clears the rotor so that the moving pad can't bend the rotor very far.
-This should give you a very small, firm feeling brake lever pull.
-You now have both the cable adjuster and the pad wear adjustment screws to take up wear.
Last edited by flyboy2160; 02-05-16 at 04:12 PM. Reason: forget step/grammar






