Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Shopping for a front derailleur: what's the difference?

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Shopping for a front derailleur: what's the difference?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-17-16, 01:18 PM
  #1  
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 434
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Shopping for a front derailleur: what's the difference?

I haven't shopped in 18 years. I've always used cheap Shimano models that pull down. I see some pull up. I see a $1,000 model (digital, probably connected to the Internet: Russian hackers could maliciously shift my gears!).

I think I paid < $10 for the current FD. I can't imagine getting better performance from another model: it shifted when I wanted it to. Weight doesn't matter. Clamp-on, alumin(i)um frame, triple, 24-52 tooth. Non-competitive

Is there a reason to buy a pull-up instead?

I used to shop at Bike Stop, which let me specify criteria. They've shut down. I'd like to narrow down my choices to one with a clamp large-enough to fit my frame, a triple that can accommodate my chainrings. Is there an on-line store that allows that?

Last edited by RandomTroll; 02-17-16 at 01:32 PM. Reason: additional question
RandomTroll is offline  
Old 02-17-16, 01:34 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Bozeman
Posts: 4,094

Bikes: 199? Landshark Roadshark, 198? Mondonico Diamond, 1987 Panasonic DX-5000, 1987 Bianchi Limited, Univega... Chrome..., 1989 Schwinn Woodlands, Motobecane USA Record, Raleigh Tokul 2

Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1131 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Some bikes need top pull derailleurs. Some need bottom pull derailleurs. Depends on your bike and where the braze on cable stops are. (Many new derailleurs come with "dual pull" capabilities which work with either top or bottom pull bikes.) Triple and double cranksets have different styles of derailleurs. You also have to be weary that derailleurs come in all sorts of different sizes for different sized seat tubes.
corrado33 is offline  
Old 02-17-16, 02:14 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
PatrickGSR94's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Memphis TN area
Posts: 7,391

Bikes: 2011 Felt Z85 (road/commuter), 2006 Marin Pine Mountain (utility/commuter E-bike), 1995 KHS Alite 1000 (gravel grinder)

Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 676 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times in 13 Posts
If the FD cable comes up from the bottom bracket area, you need a bottom pull FD. If it comes down from the top tube then you need a top pull. You also need to know the seat tube size for the clamp. Some Shimano FD's can fit multiple sizes with the use of included shims.
PatrickGSR94 is offline  
Old 02-17-16, 04:00 PM
  #4  
Keepin it Wheel
 
RubeRad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 10,245

Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Krampus

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked 3,426 Times in 2,533 Posts
New SRAM YAW FD shift angularly, not just translationally, to match chain pitch towards the cassette out back.

If you have friction front shifting, and your FD cage's curve matches the outer chainring curve close enough, then I imagine pretty much any FD will perform as well as any other.
RubeRad is offline  
Old 02-17-16, 04:48 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,070

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4198 Post(s)
Liked 3,850 Times in 2,300 Posts
Is your front shift controller an indexed one? Is it a mountain bike or road bike one (as well as the crankset type)? Ft ders have a few specs that should all coordinate to insure best performance. Already mentioned is the direction of cable pull, bottom or top. But also mentioned is that some Shimano ders have both capacities. The next design aspect is whether the parallelogram is above or below the cage as in bottom swing or top swing. This is more about the interference with frame designs like suspension pivots, seat tubes that get non round at the shell or bottle bosses located where the der clamp might be. The there's the obvious aspect on mounting interface. What tube diameter for a clamp around one (and again some ders have shims for the common tube sizes), braze on mounts, E bracket and now direct mounts are the usual versions issues. A factor not often mentioned is that some ft ders have different cage movement for the same cable pull movement. Road and mountain ft ders can be different in their cable pulling needs as well as the cranks can have different ring spacing (center to center) between road and mountain cranks. There's the cage shape. Double rings usually have an inner cage plate with less height then triple ders have. Some cages are curved along their lower edges to better follow smaller rings. Lastly there's the cage width. Wider chains or a lack of ft shift controller trim functions mean wider or more sculpted cages. Andy
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Old 02-17-16, 04:53 PM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
CliffordK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18371 Post(s)
Liked 4,507 Times in 3,350 Posts
One of my bikes has a little pulley near the bottom bracket. So the cable goes down the seat tube, over the pulley, and back up to the FD. The angles never seemed right, so I also put a twist in the cable to get the pull direction a bit better.

It seems more common for road bikes to be bottom pull, and MTBs to be top pull, perhaps related to the downtube shifters on road bikes from eons past.
CliffordK is offline  
Old 02-17-16, 06:02 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
Retro Grouch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225

Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 643 Times in 364 Posts
Originally Posted by RandomTroll
Is there a reason to buy a pull-up instead?
Why that's easy. Where are the cable stops on your bike?

If they direct your front shift cable under the bottom bracket, you need a down pull front derailleur. If they direct the shift cable downward from the top tube, you need a top pull front derailleur. There are of course work arounds that make it possible to change from one to another but, unless you're trying to solve another problem, why would anybody want to?
__________________
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
Retro Grouch is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
lxmnch
Bicycle Mechanics
1
09-26-15 12:37 PM
peugeot72
Bicycle Mechanics
8
06-01-15 08:09 PM
gman7734
Classic & Vintage
5
01-09-15 05:37 PM
jtm54
Cyclocross and Gravelbiking (Recreational)
9
09-29-13 09:08 AM
BobC127
Bicycle Mechanics
3
09-02-10 06:45 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.